Glueing trim back down to the car?

Looks like a clip that holds it has failed in some way. But for 'gluing' it back down, RTV would probably be the safest thing to use. Although that runs some risk as far as channeling water and of course holding it down while it cures.

On the plus side, if you ever need to remove the trim in the future it should be easy to cut the RTV and cleaning up any excess shouldn't be a problem.

My best guess at it...

There is really only one or two good choices. This is what many of the shops use:

careful when you put it down not to get it all over the place. and use masking tape to hold the molding in place while it cures. I would DEFINITELY CHECK on that window trim molding. You may be making a mistake by gluing it. Ask at a body or glass shop about it. If it needs to pop out to replace glass, gluing it may come back later and bite you.

Whenever you glue, be sure to protect the surrounding areas with masking tape before applying adhesives and clean residual glue off immediately.

Kate

Thanks for that info. Because we know that the window trim probably is just old and a clip has broken I dont want to permanently glue it down. Thats why I was thinking of using some waterproof silicone sealent. I think it will be strong enough to hold it down and I have used it in situations where I needed to take it back apart later on. It stays flexible and you can peel it off if need be. I dont know if it will be strong enough for the door bumper molding.

Be careful when you put it down not to get it all over the place. and use > masking tape to hold the molding in place while it cures.>

Cameron, I would avoid silicone at all costs. Since it may be a clip, please, swing by a body shop. Preferably a good one, the one for your Ford dealer would be a good start. Show them what's wrong with it and ask about the missing clip. They might just have one there in their cabinet. Usually they stock these things by the thousands in all sizes and shapes and you can get one for next to nothing. A dollar or two maybe and if they are nice they may even show you how to put it on or snap it together for you.A Glass shop (automotive of course) would have this too.

I fear the silicone will do one or more of the following: Yellow, and become very ugly Trap moisture where you don't want it, and create a breeding ground for rust Make a big problem for you if you ever need to repaint the car. If you DO ever have to get the molding away from the vehicle after you silicone it in, chances are it will be damaged because you will have to force it away from the silicone.

In the auto industry, silicone is a real No-No... feared and dreaded by paint shops and is considered a general menace in anyplace that is not specificaly designated as a sealant friendly area. Seriously, get the clip!

What year is your Mustang? The color is unfamiliar....

Kate

06 Roooo beee con!

> Be careful when you put it down not to get it all over the place. and use >> masking tape to hold the molding in place while it cures.>>

On that door trim... If it isn't bent, the CORRECT way to repair it would be to get a roll of 3M acrylic foam tape (try your local automotive paint supplier) It runs about $22 a roll. Completely remove the trim and then remove all of the existing two sided tape residue and then reapply the molding. Here is a link to what the tape is, I just googled it, chose the first one, you may find someone cheaper, I am just trying to show you the product.

To remove the trim, one of the guys in here says he uses heavy monofiliment line and cuts the foam in the middle of the double sided tape with the monofiliment. To remove the adhesive you can use good old fashioned Ronsonol lighter fluid OR Paint thinner NOT lacquer thinner, but mineral spirits will soften the goo and then you can roll it off with a terry cloth towel or your fingertip. After you have removed all of the adhesive you should use a degreaser or something like hot soapy water like Dawn or Simple Green to get any wax and oils off of the area where you are reapplying and be sure that it is good and dry beforeyou begin your repair.

Depending on how old your car is, you might try tugging gently on the molding while drizzling lighter fluid down the area where it is pulling. DON'T crimp it, pull at a slight angle but don't bend the molding very much, no more than about 30-45 degrees. If you bend it too much you can put a kink in it or crack the paint.

To run a straight line with the molding, you can stretch a masking tape line above or below the moulding to use as a visual guide. With the two sided tape, once you put it on, it should stay for years and years. If it's REALLY hot outside, wait till morning or evening to apply it. Don't be stingy with the tape. You'll be able to see where it was before, be sure you reapply it as it was originally.

Man, I hope all of this helps, and I hope that you decide to do it right rather than going the su'thn engineering route.

Kate

"Cameron" wrote in message news:STbzg.13565$ snipped-for-privacy@fe57.usenetserver.com...

Vehicle is a '88 5.0 with t-top that I just bought. Paint is some 10 year old pearl color that the previous owner had done. One of my first priorities will be to slap a maaco paint job on there, all white probably. The paint is chipped and bad in alot of places currently.

The molding bumper on the door is not bent, just coming away from the door. I'll check around at the local autoshops (autozone, etc) and see if any of them have any of that tape.

Careful... When you peel that molding, the paint will likely come with it. Repaints are notorious for that.

Since you're planning a Maaco paint job, it seems that you aren't planning to make it a pristine example. Maaco suually doesn't remove moldings when painting Soooooo you may as well go ahead and save the $$$ and use the 3M adhesive instead.

Kate

I don't expect Maaco to give the best paint job, but at least they only cost a couple hundred bucks. I just want the car to look nice when I'm crusing around in it :-)

I sure do understand :)

You should post some before and afters of it.

Kate