I'm back and it's still sitting in my garage...

You either have a bad connection between the injectors and the ECU, a bad ECU or a bad ECU ground. The bad ECU ground is the most likely and easiest to test/fix. You need a schematic to find out which wire is supposed to be grounded, then just ground it.

The fact that the code light flashed dim would lead me to believe the ground is the problem.

The noid has told you it won't flash. Only other possibility is all injectors burned out, which is not impossible, but EXTREMELY unlikely.

Yiu have eliminated the relays and fuses, with the POSSIBLE exception of the ECU fuse. The ECU can't trigger the injector ground if it is not getting power. Your owners manual should identify the ECU fues (possibly called EFI)

You are on the right track the solenoid is NOT your problem. Was never a possibility.

I was talking about the injector fuse(s). But they are good if you have 12v on one side. You should always check ALL the fuses.

Try pulling out the spout connector. (It's been a while but I think it will be a yellow wire from the dist. could be a little shorting block in a connector or a in line type connector,the one to check timing with) with this unplugged see if it runs. If it does, IIRC it points to the module being bad (or a bad connection of coarse) ps. checking for a pulse with a regular 12v test light can be tough because the pulse is so fast. It is easier on sequencial FI but I really don't know off hand what yours is. If your not using a noid light look VERY closely at the bulb when cranking. I know there is at least one if not more Ford experts on alt.autos.ford I would start over with:

1.year, make, model 2.engine size, FI type 3.cranks but won't start 4.has spark (will run on starting fluid) 5.has fuel pressure (40 psi) 6.has no injector pulse. 7does the check engine light seem to work correctly? (on bright with key on, goes out after a few seconds) post that..... 8.checked all the freakin fuses with a test light(?) ping Jim Warman (I think he is a Ford tech on alt.autos.ford

Your post has turned into a cluster f*ck, too many people replying without knowing the full story....

if it did not crank at all, it is the most likely. But joe can't tell us everything by posting stuff

Read the thread. It cranks. It makes spark. It runs on quik start. It IS NOT the solenoid. You can safely make book on it..

Your probably looking at replacing the fuel pump.

He has full fuel pressure, so although he MAY have a fuelmp problem it is NOT causing his no start problem.

You can take that to the bank.

Joe - read this whole thread myself. Tend to agree with the folks that say CHECK THAT GROUND....there's a reason that car ran fine one day and not the next.

You're getting fuel, spark and timing has not changed....check the ground....

Jimmy

Jimmy

take the module out and have it checked with a machine.

Are they not any parts stores around where you live? like autozone or advance auto

These stores have free module test.

PLEASE HUMOR ME !!!!!!!!

Clare,

Since I have 12 volts between one side of the injector connection and battery positive, can I assume the steps outlined above are now irrelevant?

Thanks!

Joe

Clare: FIRST thing to check is "do you have 12 volts to the injectors"

------------------ Joe: I have 12 volts between one side of the injector connector and battery positive. ============ Clare: You may have 12 volts on both sides. If so, when you crank the engine over, one side should "flash" as the control side is pulled to ground to fire the injector. If it does not pull down check continuity from the injector harness to the ECU, and ECU ground. If both are OK, you've got a bad ECU or possibly a sensor connecton problem, but I can't think of one that would totally kill injection and still provide spark.

------------------ Joe: Since I only have it on one side, can I skip the rest of your instructions above? ============ Clare: I'd be looking first at fuses and relays and fusible links if there is no 12 volts to the injectors.

------------------ Joe: Since I have 12 volts between one side of the injector connector and battery positive, can I assume fuses, relays and fusible links are all OK?

From the bundle wires from the ECU is a heavy black wire with an uncoated silver strand of wires attached to the chassis.

I disconnected it, sanded the chassis and the connector and reconnected it...

NO CHANGE!

I am now gonna look for the ECU fuse.

Joe

Where would I find Fuse Link G; i.e., the ECU fuse???

I don't have a manual for your car available, but normally in the fuse-box/junction box in the engine compartment, where the relays live. Could also be in a panel in the kick-panel, or the main fuse box.

On my Mystique there is an engine control fuse. It is a 7.5 amp fuse in the main panel. The pcm keep-alive is in the box by the battery (3 amp) and there is a 20 amp pcm power fuse also in that box. Also a PCM power relay in that box.

Would REALLY help to have a pinout diagram for the ECU. Check for power at thethrottle sensor switch. SHould have 5 volts on one wire with it disconnected and the key on.. If so, CPU is getting power. (at least on the "brain" side. If not, check fuses, but could also still be the ECU.

I have disconnected sanded and reconnected G104 and G201; could not find G109.

Still no noid flash...

The PCM relay sits on top of the PCM and I actually have gotten the pinpoints out and that's on the agenda for tomorrow.

some of those things are in the harness itself, some times ford put things in different places on the 5.0's too. Good luck and let us know what you find out. If you have a good set of drawings, they will show you the components, but not where they are, one manual I have on 5.0 has all the electrical drawings in the back. Some Shops have the big set, shows much more.

irrelevant?