I'm back and it's still sitting in my garage...

First, the timing doesn't have to be perfect to spec in order for the engine to run. Second, the posts you have made here show you have little knowledge about Fox Mustangs. Third, tell me how you would set the timing if you installed a new distributor? If the timing is off so far that the car won't start then either you loosened the distributor, gave it a good twist and/or failed to tighten it down or there is a catastrophic failure in the distributor, timing chain/gears and/or the cam drive gear. I would guess that you aren't qualified to perform any of these potential repairs or even make an accurate diagnosis.

Do the damn car, and us, a favor and take to it a qualified mechanic. None of us here have a psychic ability to guide you in how to fix it. Or just let the car sit in your garage but don't whine to us about it.

Who said ANYTHING about installing a NEW distributor?

Sure, I removed my old distributor, in order to check the TFI module, but I first put the no. 1 piston on top dead center, marked the position of the no. 1 tower, marked the position of the rotor, and marked the distributor body and the block so it would all go back in exactly the way it came out.

If I did anything wrong when removing the distributor or if I missed something when removing the distributor, please, please, please let me know.

That said, about 8 years ago, I did advance the timing some to get a few more hp, but when I replaced my distributor because of a crack in it, I also returned the timing to the OEM spec to get a little better gas mileage. I believe I followed the exact same procedure described above without any problems.

Again, if I did anything wrong or if I overlooked anything when removing and replacing the distributor, I would appreciate knowing what it was.

Here, I have 40 psi at the Schrader, according to my spark tester, I am getting a spark, the TFI module tests ok, well at least all of the resistances are within spec, I assume this means the TFI module is ok, and my noid light tester confirms that I am not getting any power to the injectors. So...

Where am I? Well, I am trying to figure out which relay or fuse or connector or unit/module, could be the culprit regarding the injectors getting no signal. I swapped my fuel pump relay and WOT cut-off relay; that did not help. Now, I think, I need to check the connection to ground for the injectors and possibly the condition of the PCM and ECM, Would you agree, or do you think I should be looking at something else? (The wiring diagrams do not indicate any fuses between the PCM and the injectors, so I am at a loss at where else to look for a possible fuse problem... no, let me take that back, fuse link D sits "behind" the PCM, so that is on my list of things to find and check on.)

If you have any helpful suggestions or constructive advice, I would be delighted to here it, but I haven't needed a mechanic to do my tune- ups, brake and clutch jobs, to replace my clutch cable and quadrant, to replace the OEM air filter with a K&N system, to replace and update my A/C (except for evacuating the freon), to replace my shocks and struts, or to fix my convertible top, and I will be damned if 2 naysayers are going to --- I forgot, to replace some balls and joints and some other armature thing that escapes me right now --- and I will be damned if 2 naysayers are going to convince me --- I also forgot, to replace my alternator, thermostat and water pump --- and I will be damned if 2 naysayers are going to convince me I can not figure my way through this! So, like I say to my 9 year old son, if you do not have anything nice to say, keep your FCKNG mouth shut... OK, OK, when speaking to my 9 year old, I end with, ... then say nothing, but I think you get my point, uh?

Thanks in advance for your helpful advice or for saying nothing.

Joe

Biggus,

Was I out of line in my response to "My Name Is Nobody"? Just in case I was, rather than allow my Italian temper to move me further down a road I don't want to go, instead of replying to Mr. Johnson, I am simply hoping he can find it in himself to hit the [DELETE] key rather than read any more of my posts.

Thanks, again, for your assistance on this project!

Joe

Does it have 12 volts to the injectors?

have you checked fuses?

quoted text -

Michael,

As you already know, you were right about the timing and I was wrong.

Sorry for my smart-ass comment.

... and thanks for your previous help.

Joe

Joe,

I am definitely no "expert" at this, so others may very well be able to guide you better.

Initially, I think I'd put a timing light on it in a darkend garage, have someone else try to start it and see where the spark is on the indicator. This is definitely not a scientific way to do it, but if there is spark at the #1 plug there will be a timing light flash as the engine turns. This ought to give you some indication in 3 or 4 revs of whether the marks are even close.

Keep in mind, when initially timing an engine, putting the #1 cylinder in TDC is not the way to do it, Aligning the timing marks on the front of the engine BEHIND the timing sprockets is the way its advised to be done) Using the TDC method is a way to "get close" and then "fine tune it" after the engine is running, but if something has happened to get it that far off, when putting the new timing set on, you need to be right on track to prevent dropping a valve or even worse.

Try advancing the timing as far as it will go in one direction or the other (45* is one plug on a V8) and see if it will start and run rough, then go the other direction and try. If it starts, runs rough and then dies or even if it tends to run at all, then you have spark, fuel and its a timing issue. Keep in mind, if it is running that far out of time, you could easily damage a piston or valves, so don't race it and dont think that you've "fixed it" by advancing the timing. Something in the timing mechanism changed to make that happen and it needs to be fixed. If it is a tooth on the timing sprocket, it will run so erratically you won't be able to keep it in time.

Try a timing light while trying to get it to start, might find the marks don't even come close (they won't without vaccuum, anyway) but the marks should be visible.

John

quoted text -

Sorry if I was rude. I wasn't trying to be. Sometimes there just comes a point where having a mechanic involved makes sense to get the problem fixed. Many times this route is less expensive since you won't waste money on buying parts that were never needed in the first place. There are so many potential causes of your problem that we may not be able to point you to the right one. We have guided you to the ones that are obvious and easy to diagnose and it looks like there is something wrong that needs a professional to pinpoint it.

As cars get more complicated through the use of electronics it is harder to diagnose problems. While the Fox Mustang has a lot of old school design employed it does have a certain level of electronic control that makes diagnosis of some repairs very difficult without more sophisticated equipment or in depth knowledge of the car's systems. My comments were only meant to give you good advice based on my own personal experienced of owning a Fox Mustang continuously since 1987 and from heavily modifying it over the years.

Still have not heard if he has 12 volts to the injectors. Without that, he doesn't stand a chance. He can check that with a standard 12 volt test light to ground.

The other test light check is to put the test light from batt pos to the "ground" side of the injectors and crank the engine. If the light flashes the ECU is triggering the injectors. If he has no 12 volts and has a trigger, it will be a connection, fuse, or relay. If he has no

12 volts AND no trigger it will be one of those common to both the injector circuit and the PCM. If he has no 12 volts and has a trigger it will be one specific to the injector power only.

distributor, or distributor cap ?

what did you set it to? It won't save any gas milage.

all this dosen't matter because you said it was running OK a week ago.

Your story is morfing.

but your car ran fine a week or so ago, right? swap out computer, right?

take it to a shop, you are getting too emotional with your old bucket of bolts that won't start now because it *Hates* you. (unless you find the problem)

TFI - If testing the 6 resistances called for in Chilton's is conclusive, then yes, the TFI is OK since all of the resistances were in spec.

Injectors - I tested one injector connection with a noid tester and it did not flash, but I also checked the voltage at the connector... one side had 12V and the other side had 0V.

Given this additional information, would you still focus on a loose wire or a grounded wire or look somewhere else?

I could not pull any codes with my OBD1 code reader. It simply never entered test mode.

I have not replaced the rotor, cap or coil... perhaps I should check the coil, at least.

Wiring seems fine; battery is in good shape.

Done, everything seems to be in good order.

Battery reads 12.9; that said, after trying to run the code tester, the voltage had dropped, but I was able to recharge the battery at 2A in a matter of minutes.

Thanks for your encouragement!

Joe

Michael,

When you said...

You meant the PCM, right?

Thanks!

Joe

Clare,

You are right on target...

I tested one injector connector with a noid light and did not get a flash.

I also checked the voltage and had 12V on one side and 0V on the other.

Next on my list of things to do is (i) test the coil, and (2) check the ECU (>>> a.k.a. ECM, right?

Done, everything seems in order.

Done, noid light tester does not flash; one side of connector has 12V and the other side has 0V.

Any thoughts on where to go from here???

Thanks!

Joe

No pulse, but 12V on one side and 0V on the other side.

Pressure is 40 psi and it holds well; although I have not yet done a flow test yet.

Given the lack of pulse and voltage readings above, any suggestions?

Thanks!

Joe

Module... I checked the resistances and they are in spec.

Noid Test... No pulse.

Pressure Test... In spec.

Any suggestion where I should look next?

Thanks!

Joe

Michael,

When you said...

You were referring to a PCM, right?

Thanks!

Joe

It runs for a few seconds when shot with starter fluid...

Can I skip the solenoid?

Thanks!

Joe

I checked one of the injector connectors and had 12V on one side and

0V on the other.

Specifically which fuses should I check?

Thanks!

Joe

fromwww.fordfuelinjection.com,

Hide quoted text -

Michael,

You certainly do not need to apologize. I started the name-calling and it was absolutely uncalled for.

Thanks, again, for your help and encouragement.

Joe