NOS on 300ZX

What does that link have to do with N2O?

The problems most people have with N2O is they use the cheapest kit they can find. They shoot 150HP shot into a 150HP engine and the pistons end up in the oil pan. That or the stock fuel system can't keep up, the engine leans out and again the pistons end up in the oil pan.

Are you talking about 200-250 OVER the factory HP? That isn't going to happen without some serious upgrades.

No car is fully modified and already has over 500 HP ( I dunno exactly how much more). Is 40-50% possible with some more expensive nitro kit(around 3000 USD).

I gave link only to see what modifications have been done.

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Highly doubt it would last for very long. 500HP is already 200HP over stock, which wasn't a whimpy car to start with. You can use nitrous (not nitro, that is a drag race fuel) on a turbo car before it comes on boost to help eliminate lag, nitrous -and- lots of boost would again send the tops of the pitons into the oil pan. You're better off buying $5+ a gallon 115 octane race gas and running MORE boost.

Wouldn't it be safer to use nitrous with less boost, then your not stressing the turbo, and the nitrous will help control knock with the cooler charge?

OK, but engine is completely rebuilt(at least I think so). Would 100 HP over be a problem for it?!? How much it would cost me ?!?

Whole set up is about maxed out with everything nicely matched and specified to the power it's making now. To increase the boost it really needs bigger turbos as they are only rated for 50bhp more. Injectors can only cope with 550bhp and at 500bhp have a nice safe

50bhp margin to ensure they do't go lean. Fuel pump can only deliver fuel for 500bhpish so that could do with uprating anyway. If used as it is, should get a few dyno runs, a drag strip once a month, some track days and maybe 20-25K miles before the rebuild. (Steve will say "As much as that?") Run it on 10w40 for daily use, 10w50 when it's going be used hard. Needs careful warm up for reasonable life especially when on 10w50, allow to idle for first 30 seconds, don't exceed 3000 rpm in first 3 min, don't plant your foot on the gas until fully warm - oil temp not water temp. 300ZX is supposed to be able to take 600bhp on stock internals. No one has ever reported for how long, could need a rebuild every 5K miles or may only last a dyno run and a few runs on a drag strip. Putting extra 100bhp in using N20 will give 100bhp more exhaust gas flow, that will drive the turbos to pull in more air which gets metered by the AFM and you get more than 100bhp. So you put about 75bhp N20 in and get 25bhp more from the turbos = 100bhp. ECU has to put 25bhp (=525bhp) more fuel in for extra air but that runs fuel system close to limit and it may go lean.

More boost, wet or dry N20 it needs a bigger fuel pump. The injectors won't flow enough for even a 30bhp dry N20 system and are really too close to the limit for a 75bhp wet system. So for 600bhp max it needs N20 jetted for about 75bhp - the turbo will make it up to 100bhp, fuel pump(s) and injectors - should flow 650cc for dry and 600cc for wet. Or forget the N20, fit fuel pump and 650cc injectors, increase the boost and accept reduced turbo life. As Steve says use race fuel to compensate for higher inlet temps and higher effective compression when boost is set high.

For 700-750bhp it needs stronger rods, forged pistons, thicker metal head gaskets, bigger turbos (disco potato) with dump pipes, 800cc injectors and fuel pump. As Steve says no point in going with N20 when the required mods to take the power will deliver the power by boost alone. But internal mods cost a lot more in labor than bolt on's and you are going to take a loss on selling secondhand JWT turbos and 555cc injectors.

So? You can blow up a brand new engine if you push it too far. The problem is detonation and piston crown overheating.

Try it and find out. If you break a piston it was too much. If it doesn't, it wasn't.

Thanks on VERY big responses, I'll think twice before doing anything.