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question for Steve T

Steve, I have an 82 turbo 5 speed and I still have a cold start problem. It fires up and then stalls and may do this 2 or 3 three times before it will stay running. Once running it is reluctant to rev up while driving for the first

30-40 seconds and then it is fine all day. You had mentioned that it may help to unplug and reconnect the computer which I did and it made a marginal difference if any. Since then I also replaced the cap, rotor, plugs and the coolant temp sensor (in the side of the head near the second plug from the rear). Still no real improvement.

Anyway, I have 2 questions if you wouldn't mind giving me some more of your time and knowedge:

1) Any other suggestions for a possible cause and solution ??

2) I am curious if you could explain to me how the sensor I replaced fits it to the picture. While the car is idling if I unplug it the idle rises about

100RPM and seems to smooth out, however with it unplugged the car does not start, it cranks and I smell fuel but it won't catch. I would like to understand the role of this sensor if possible.

Thanks and have a great day. I wish we lived closer as I can't find anyone up here willing to work on the car.

Regards, Joe

Reply to
joe
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Replace the whole EFI system with one from a 300ZX? We do this on these cars because of problems like you are having. The EFI system on those turbo cars was about like the auto climate control many came with. They worked OK when new but when they flake out they FLAKE out!

Another option is either SDS EFI or the cheaper more DIY megasquirt system. Both are better than either of the factory systems.

Refresh my memory, which sensor did you replace?

Reply to
Steve T

The sensor I replaced was the coolant temp sensor, it is in the head near the second plug from the rear or the motor. Has a 2 wire connector on it. Just curious how it fits in to the picture.

Thanks Joe

Reply to
joe

On a Z' of that vintage, these tell the ECU the engine temp and if they aren't connected, the ECU should run a preset warm cycle using default values and make assumptions on how fast the engine should warm up. The fact your's doesn't, makes me believe you have one of the thousands of dead

280ZXT computers and is probably what's wrong with the car.

Like I said if you want to drive the car reliably, you need to change to another fuel management system. Trying to find a good used early turbo ECU is a joke as most had similar problems. Probably the cheapest is to pull the wiring and ECU/MAS etc from an 84-89 turbo 300ZX and do that swap.

Not much more money is to swap in a megasquirt laptop programable setup. See

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The easiest way to do this is to use an early Z distributor and an MSD 6BTM box to control spark and boost retard, otherwise you can use the turbo distributor and use the MS box to control the spark map.

Unfortunatly for you, there really isn't a good easy fix for the problem and is why most of those cars sell for peanuts, the elctronics are awful! Lucky for nissan these were the only Z's that had these sorts of issues as they were the "beta tester" samples for their modern electronics..

Reply to
Steve T

Steve, Thanks for all of your time and insight.

Regards, Joe

Reply to
joe

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