'95 Max auto tranny slipping

The problem I am referring to is the slipping that mostly affects mid

1990s Nissan Maximas.

Well know problem ?!?!

Where did you get your info ??

I see 95's come in all with well over 200K and the trans is still shifting strong, of course they did regular maintence to it.

Did you ever get it serviced regularly, trans oil flushes every 30,000 miles or did you just drive the piss out of it till it failed.

If the trans is slipping it is already too late and the trans will /has already has failed.

One of the solenoid's in the VB will slip first gear if you don't make a full stop (engine rev's and tranny does not engage for quite a few seconds until gas is let off of and then presses slightly again). Well known problem since these cars were nearly new, do a google search. My old auto 96 Maxima had this problem.

You've been getting increasingly more 'Nissan can do no wrong' recently in your posts. What is with that? You're a great resource, but I always hated the certified techs who hang out on their respective usenet groups and will cut the throat of anyone who speaks negatively about their employer...

(Nissan does make mistakes, would you like to deny that to the thousands of us 4th gen. 5-speed Maxima owners who have had to rebuild their tranny's because of the infamous diff. bearing problem, which was shimmed 5 sizes too big from the factory, and caused our bearings to rip to shit right around

60k?)

Nick

Yep.

Here.

I've have only 110K miles on it. Do ever seen them come in with this problem? Are you denying the problem?

Look, "NissTech" dude...I haven't had it for 30k miles...I bought it used from a supposedly reliable Nissan dealer in Maryland by the name of "Len Stoler Nissan". I replaced a 1986 Maxima with 290,000 miles on it.

Been driven the "piss out of"? I'll tell you what the f**k has been driven the "piss out of" . . . my wallet, that's the only thing thats been driven the "piss out of". Since 12/2001:

-replaced a leaking right rear caliper;

-replaced its mate on the other side;

-I was told the front rotors need to be replaced because "they are at spec" and the mechanic "will not touch them";

-left & right CV boots torn;

-right CV joint replacement (this is being done tomorrow);

-right wheel bearing (replace tomorrow);

-and now I have a check engine light to deal with

Figures.

If you don't have a way to deal with that, you can look in the FAQ (forgotten which one) for the procedure to read the trouble codes directly from the check engine light, then look up the codes here:

light, then look

Thanks.

This is the problem I am referring to. Perhaps "slip" is not the correct description...it's strong when it does shift gears.

When I am coming to a stop or almost complete stop and then accelerate the transmission does not want to engage. I have now gotten into a habit of waiting for the transmission to engage before going on.

The transmission sometimes doesn't seem to know what gear it wants either. It also sometimes doesn't want to shift gears quickly especially down shifting.

Is VB the valve body?

At

they sell aValve Body kit part number K75944 that will: "Corrects / Prevents / Reduces: Falls out of gear at the stop sign HOT. Delayed forward engagement. No 3rd aftr a 3 - 2 or 4 - 2 kickdown. 4 - 3 or 4 - 2 kickdown runaway, burns up the 3 - 4 clutches, direct clutch (3rd) inner seal leak, wears flat or opens up, soft 1 - 2 and 2 - 3. High-Temp Low-Shrink rings assure quality shifts & extended durability."

Some of those symptoms describe my problem. Regardless of comments to the contrary, apparently this problem is common enough that there is a kit being sold for it.

$65 bucks seems like a good price, if I could only do it myself...I wonder what installation labor would cost?

Yea, then you have the solenoid problem. My mom now drives my old Maxima and its still as bad as before (but she doesn't seem to care or notice for that matter).

Yep.

Do a search on

There are a few articles thatillustrate how to install the valve body. If you've done a clutch job on amanual, you can get this one down. If you're not that mechanically inclined,bring it to a shop. They have to drain the ATF, remove the AT pan, and getto the valve body. Nothing insane, but it should cost around 3 - 4 hours oflabor to get it done right. Considering the damage you're doing to the ATclutches everytime you feel that thing slip, it isn't too much money tospend to have a healthy transmission. Funny thing is ever since I started driving my 5 speed Maxima, I've noticed a lot of other auto's do this. Compared to other cars, the Maxima's auto for some reason likes to jerk into the gear once it finally catches itself though. Fack it, sell your auto and get a 5speed Max :)

Good luck

Nick

I don't remember what possessed me to get the auto, my previous max was a 5-speed manual.

Thanks. It's unfortunate that "NissTech", instead of getting bent out of shape and jumping to conclusions, wasn't as helpful as you.