Need some advice on DIY brake job.. 2K2 GLE

Shouldn't be any problem at all. You might consider getting a 18" (1/2" socket) breaker bar and dead-blow hammer to tap loose any stuck bolts, but at 50k things shouldn't be too tough. I've skipped the hardware kit before, IMO it's not a problem if you don't damage the springs and the shims don't have much corrosion. IME the hardware lasts 100k, depending on how salty your winters are. You can go back in and add the kit if you find the new pads squeaking. As far as working with the kit, just be careful to disassemble and reassemble exactly. Before removing any springs, look closely at where each end is hooked and make a mental note of it. I lay a towel on the floor and spread out the parts I take off in an organized fashion so I'm sure the new ones go in the exact same orientation. Also on the new cars, be careful with your wrenches and mallet and don't damage the ABS sensors and other stuff. The only wildcard is the wear indicator - that metal hook/spring on some of the pads. Put those in the location of the most-worn old pads. I wouldn't buy the cross-drilled rotors - just a really good aftermarket blank rotor. But definitely buy new ones if you suspect the old ones are worn the slightest bit unevenly - it's not fun to redo the entire job and buy another set of pads because the old rotors killed them.

Dave

One word of caution -- the rear caliper pistons can't be compressed with a clamp like the front ones, they screw in. You can screw them in with either a pair of needle-nose pliers or buy a special tool at pretty much any auto store for under $10. Cross drilled rotors may give you a little less fade, but they're also noisier. I've always found the brakes in the Maxima to be more than adequate and usually just replace the rotors with Brembo Blanks (pretty cheap online) and OEM pads from the dealer (not the cheap OEM pads, the good ones -- yes, they sell two varieties).

I looked at Courtesy and they didn't have any detail on their rotors so I figured them to be Nissan made. After reading lots of complaints I wanted to avoid stock discs, even though they may have resolved any problems with them.

IMO the drilled rotors look good, and the price was about the same. Of course on the Maxima they are pretty small looking.. if I recall the rotors were a bit larger in my 3rd gen.

Thanks Pat

J>GO with the aftermarket rotors for both looks and cooling. I like the

Hi Dave, I'm glad you concur with letting the brake kit go.. I'm not confident enough to replacing caliper seals and such at this time.

I'm pretty sure I have the necessary tools, but last time I used a bleeder hose the thing leaked like a garden soaker hose. Even though it was new, the pores opened right up and micro-squirted brake fluid everywhere. Maybe you have a recommendation on where to find a decent one?

ABS is something I hadn't thought of.. I'll be careful with that.

I wound up ordering a full set of Stillen drilled rotors and their metal matrix pads. They were priced higher than stock but not too much. Funny how the rears were more expensive..

Thanks, Pat

"David Geesaman" wrote:

Yes, I remember reading this here.. thanks for the reminder. Hopefully it won't be too big a hassle with needlenose pliers, but if I see the tool I might pick one up.. it's not like I won't use it again.

I wasn't aware that cross-drilled rotors were noisier.. I'm also looking at new tires which are said to be noisy as well. Well, my hearing isn't what it used to be so hopefully I can ignore it!!

Though I'm no Stillen fan I went with their rotors and pads anyway. Didn't know Brembo was a premium manufacturer until doing a search a few moments ago.. I thought they were just another bling-bling company you read about in maxima.org.

Anyone wonder why Nissan even offers their key-value pads? Is the difference in price worth it??

Thanks, Pat

Dan wrote:

and usually just replace

Raybestos makes "QuietStop" pads for the front brakes, which will outperform, outlast, and produce less dust than OEM.

Matthew

When I bought a hardware kit I only got springs and shims - no rubber seals of any kind. Buying a new hardware kit only replaces parts you're going to remove anyway. It is worth noting that aftermaket pads usually have some shims already on them, and I'm never exactly sure which (if any) of the stock hardware goes onto aftermarket pads.

Dave

Probably to try and skim some more of the DIY market and not lose as much money to the aftermarket groups. Or it's to lower the published cost of changing brake pads, just to make it look more competitive in the used car market.

As for the rear brake tool, I got one at Parts Express for $9. It worked very nicely and fits both of my cars. Autozone strangely doesn't carry this tool at all.

Dave

They offer the Key Value line to compete pricewise and quality-wise with aftermarket installers such as Midas and Meineke. People who shop on price alone go for them, and usually skip turning the rotors as well. Then they bitch because the cheap stuff they wanted makes noise.

Autozone does carry the rear brake tool in their loan-a-tool program.

Well, I've had my aftermarket Stillen cross-drilled rotors and metal pads on the rears for almost a week now.. (fronts go on this weekend). Used a hand vacuum pump to bleed the brakes which made it easy to do alone, and painted the calipers black as well. Looks good, except our rotors are puny looking for this size car.

Right away I noticed significant improvement in stopping which I wasn't expecting from just the rears. Brake modulation is excellent, and it feels very controllable.

Something I read about on maxima.org is that the combination of drilled rotors and metal pads will be noisy, and they are. I don't mind it, but I hear a soft whoosh or sliding sound when applying the brakes.. this is with the windows open and a wall or guardrail nearby to reflect the sound, otherwise its inaudible. Things will probably get louder when the fronts go on.

Chances are these will not last as long as OEM, but boy do they slow me down smoothly and quickly. I can still feel the warpage up front, but I can tell its gonna be nice when the new parts go up there too.

Thanks again for the earlier advice!!

Pat

It might mean the difference between 'good' and 'very good'. If the rotors are warped badly, replace them..they aren't too expensive. Otherwise have them turned and replace the pads.

Word on the street is that BREMBO blanks (no holes or slots) are the best replacements around and reasonably priced.

In my case I plan to drive this car into the ground.. the old rotors can be turned and be ready for the my brake job. Face it, our rotors are too small for the car and will get the hell beaten out of them..

R>I just got new Nissan pads for the frount brakes on my 2k2 SE but did