accessing relays behind fascia panel in late-1982 C900 - how?

For the life of me I cannot figure out a way to remove the lower fascia panel in my C900 (late 1982) without totally removing the intruments, etc.
I'm loathe to do that at this stage, but after a few hours of frustration I can't see any other way to do it.
Reason I need to do this is the RHS rear combination light is giving wierd behaviour. With the electricals engaged, if I select right indicator the front indicator light flashes but the rear one does not. Instead, the dual-filament brake light alternates power on it's filaments, and the middle brake light flashes.
If I press on the brake pedal, the flasher relay stops flashing and all right-turn indication action stops until the brake pedal is released again.
I need to access the relays behind the fascia panel to trace back the indicator wiring and see if there is some sort of wierd short circuit or wires joined up where they shouldn't be.
The problem has only started to occur recently. Any things I can check out without going to the trouble of gutting the insides of the car to access the relays behind the lower fascia panel?
I have also noticed that with the rear combination lights, the earth pins on the multi-pin connectors tend to fail. My donor car has custom earth wires bolted to the lamp holder while my running car doesn't. I have found a scotch-lok connector that's very badly corroded (looks like it's slightly burnt) that I need to replace, but that's not a recent thing. Probably existed when I purchased the car.
Regards,
Craig. -- Craig Ian Dewick ( snipped-for-privacy@lios.apana.org.au). http://lios.apana.org.au/~craig APANA Sydney Regional Co-ordinator. Operator of Jedi (an APANA Sydney POP). Always striving for a secure long-term future in an insecure short-term world Have you exported a crypto system today? Do your bit to undermine the NSA.
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says...

Check your earthing point at that rear light cluster first. It may be a bad ground there, and is a common fault (rear light ground faults).
If you do need to drop the knee bolster, remove the steering wheel. Take out the ashtray, and unbolt the center console if you have one (one bolt behind ashtray, two screws under the center ribbed rubber strip at the bottom).
Where the console bolted in behind the ashtray is a larger bolt (13 or 14mm I think) remove that.
Then, underneith the hood, in the inner wing directly under the corners of the windshield, there is a 10mm bolt on each side of the car. It may be covered in sealant that needs to be removed. It is a little fiddly, but you can get an extension especially with a UJ onto it. that should be all the bolts out now, and it comes out, then down, or down then out (can't remember exactley).
I think some of the later models have more bolts, but I don't have one of them so can't advise.
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This could well explain why the donor car I've been comparing the wiring in my car with has a bolt and a replacement ground wire going to the rear earth point... Each rear light cluster in the donor car has one actually.

Sounds complicated but now I know where to look for all the securing devices, I should be able to work out how to make it happen! I'll check our the earthing issue first though as that's a lot simpler to take care of.
Craig. -- Craig Ian Dewick ( snipped-for-privacy@lios.apana.org.au). http://lios.apana.org.au/~craig APANA Sydney Regional Co-ordinator. Operator of Jedi (an APANA Sydney POP). Always striving for a secure long-term future in an insecure short-term world Have you exported a crypto system today? Do your bit to undermine the NSA.
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says...

I've been lucky, apart from soome reversing light issues (and an indicator that stopped working on the day of the MOT, but was just a loose bulb rather than a failoed bulb), my rear clusters have been fine.
The dash isn't two tricky.
What is difficult the actual Dashtop/instrument cluster. Thats why a lot of jobs get done through the speaker holes. I've got a dash bulb (the one for the fuel/boost/temp gauge) out and it is a real git to try and get a grip on it to twist it, without being able to see where you are going.
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This sounds like an earthing problem for the rear light units, rather than an electrical fault behind the dash. My C900, Shitroen ZX and Ford Orions have all had fairly random acting rear lights. Cleaning up all the connections, and in the case of the ZX making "custom" earth wires solved the problem.
Mike
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Fixed it today. Was an earth problem. Actually I found that one of the previous owners of the car has really stuffed a lot of the wiring since many of the non-factory wiring for the sound system, etc. has wire joins which are not soldered and simply twisted joins with electrical tape to prevent shorts against the chassis!
This is something I abhore since it smacks of the person having no clue how to make proper connections and perform wiring tasks so the wiring joins are reliable and safe for as long as possible.. 8-)

Judicious cleaning of the earth points (something else I did as well as installing new earth wires for both rear light clusters) will help too.
Craig.
-- Craig Ian Dewick ( snipped-for-privacy@lios.apana.org.au). http://lios.apana.org.au/~craig APANA Sydney Regional Co-ordinator. Operator of Jedi (an APANA Sydney POP). Always striving for a secure long-term future in an insecure short-term world Have you exported a crypto system today? Do your bit to undermine the NSA.
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On Tue, 20 Jan 2004 08:50:57 +0000 (UTC), snipped-for-privacy@lios.apana.org.au (Craig Ian Dewick) wrote:

First thing I'd do is to run that ground wire properly, and either clean or replace the ground wire. It sounds very much like a bad ground at the tail light to me.
Harvey

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Had exactly the same probs... fixed it using the instructions on the following link;
http://www.andrewsofprinceton.com/service/tech_tips/nov.html
good luck. Gwilym.
http://lios.apana.org.au/~craig

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Thanks for all the tips. I agree it seems like an earth problem so I'm going to fix it today. My donor car already has additional earth wires added for both rear light clusters so whoever owned that car in the past must have experienced the same sort of problem.
Craig. -- Guru Will Sellit! ** 'sunrk' on Ebay ** | Get Back on Track at the Sun Shack Craig Dewick - aka the one4sun! | www.sunshack.org or www.sunshack.net Main info website at www.one4sun.org +------------------------------------- SRK's Ebay Shop is now available at www.ebayshops.com.au/sunripenedkernels
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