Cold Weather Dependability

C900s love the cold. Just make sure you have a good battery, and use a thiner oil if it's too thick (this causes the slow cranking).

It was Made for Swedes - it can take the cold! (just take the usual winter precautions).

sb

This point about handling well in snow... Does anyone else think that one reason this get mentioned is partly because SAAB works to get the CG of the car at the hip point of the driver? That's my theory... maybe it's something else but it seems that charging into a slippery turn feels different in SAABs and they seemed to maintain this through to the GM900 at least.

-meld

Grunff wrote:

Unfortunately it appears mine doesn't - when it's running cold it often stalls if I stop suddenly and dont keep the revs up, as a temporary solution I have increased the idle so its fine when cold but that means it idles too high once warmed.

Previous mails from this group have suggested a vac leak as a cause - if so what bits do I need and from where? I've let this go on too long now as it is only in the winter that it's a problem (and only for the first five minutes driving), it's time I got it sorted, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Gwilym.

Is this just when the engine is cold (when first started) or all the time?

Yes, just when first started (and only in winter).... after 5 minutes of driving it's fine. Any ideas?

Cheers, Gwilym.

This is most likely a fueling issue. What model + year is it?

The Classic 900 has the reputation of being better in the snow than the

9000 or newer 900s. > This point about handling well in snow... Does anyone else think that

8v or 16v?

1990(G) 900i...

Gwilym.

8v

Gwilym.

This has the Bosch CIS. When the engine is cold, it uses an extra injector (the coldstart injector, the one with the blue plug) to introduce extra fuel. It knows when it's cold using the NTC temperature sensor (under the inlet manifold somewhere IIRC - it's been a while since I had an 8v).

If [a] the injector is faulty, [b] the NTC is faulty, or [c] the wiring between them has failed, you will have cold start and running problems.

Much appreciated - I'll check it out.

Thanks a lot, Gwilym.

In addition if it helps: the car has no problem starting (almost always sparks immediately) when I first get to it, but if it has stalled under the outlined conditions it turns over many times before starting again. Really annoying when you stall at a junction! Cheers, Gwilym.

in article bu9049$f5fhh$ snipped-for-privacy@ID-152899.news.uni-berlin.de, Grunff at snipped-for-privacy@ixxa.com wrote on 16/01/2004 15:28:

There are three main components - the cold start injector, the auxiliary air valve and the thermo time switch. All these have to (a) be working and (b) be working together. It gives you somewhere to start and the Haynes is pretty straightforward about how to test the system. The AAV failed on mine a few months ago giving me some serious headaches when cold starting. The cold start injector is fine so long as the AAV is working.

It could well just be a little lean, which is another way of saying "fuelling issue" :) If you're going to blindly adjust the mixture, do it

*very* gently. The mixture screw is very sensitive. You'll need a 3mm hex about 6 inches long to make adjustments. Best have a CO meter handy to read off the exhaust pipe otherwise.

Good luck with that fine breed of Saab,

Paul

1989 900 Turbo S

in article bu93h6$je6$ snipped-for-privacy@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk, GG at snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote on 16/01/2004 16:30:

I think the temperature sensor on your model is between 2 & 3 cylinders - it was on my '85 900i. Otherwise, it's under the distributor.

Sounds very much like it's flooding. You need more air in there during warm-up. Check out the AAV!

Paul

1989 900 Turbo S

Poor cold drivability with CIS was one of it's few weaknesses, not just on saabs either...

You can improve the situation, but if you start messing with mixtures you can bugger it up for warm running.

Hesitation is usually caused by a faulty warm up regulator.

A low idle is to be expected cold too, but check the auxillary air valve for function

K-jet a very simple system and shouldn't take too much sorting to fix, but don't expect perfection when cold like modern injection systems.

Well, I am happy for you. While my 9000 does perform well in snow, with the proper tires, it has been a cold weather pig sice the day it left the factory 12 years ago. I dont know why I keep it. I must be a glutton for punishment. It has been maintained meticulously and yes I use synthetic oils and without a new battery "EVERY" year , it would never turn over in the morning. My wfe has never driven the car between Oct and March for the full life of the vehicle. Below zero, it takes 2 feet to push in the clutch and a body builder to move the shit lever. It takes about 3-4 seconds to shift, assuming I can find the next gear. Hardly any need for brakes as this thing refuses to roll unless it is under power. Surprise.....the power steering actually works as one would expect from this "quality" machine. After 30 minutes or so of driving, everything gradually starts to work properly. On a positive note, my Kenwood sound system always keeps me smiling!!

Thanks for all the help - time to get the Haynes manual out. I hate working on the car in the winter! Cheers, Gwilym.