information about saab 900 turbo 1992

hi everyone,
i'm thinking buying a saab 900 turbo 1992,
has anyone got a .pdf service manual that i could download?
Else, what should i look on the car before buying? on the motor, steering,
etc?what parts are fragile?
Thanks for your help and sorry for bad english!!
Hugues
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On Thu, 4 Dec 2003 17:03:46 +0100, hugues wrote:

My 1992 900 (non-turbo) just had the crankshaft pulley and timing chain replaced at 115k miles. I think that's pretty typical. Currently also leaking power steering fluid from somewhere. Other things I've had fail in the last few years: power window motor, fuel pump, clutch, various suspension components. I think all of those things should be the same on a turbo, and that all of them are quite normal for a c900 of this vintage.
Currently, my car is running perfectly (fingers crossed).
John
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John B wrote:

I don't agree about the chain. Even 200k is unusual for replacement.
--
Grunff


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Eh, I've seen some other posts on this group about chain replacement around 115k before. Maybe it didn't really need replacing, but since there was some question (was beginning to get a bit noisy) I decided to go for it-- chain failure on the 16v engine is supposedly a very bad thing. I could afford a new timing chain, but not a new engine :)
John
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John B wrote:

I think a lot of people get sold chain replacements which are unncessary.
You're right of course that chain failure is very, very bad. But it's also almost unheard of on either the 8v or the 16v engines.
--
Grunff


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John B wrote: ::: I don't agree about the chain. Even 200k is unusual for replacement. ::: :: :: Eh, I've seen some other posts on this group about chain replacement :: around 115k before. Maybe it didn't really need replacing, but since :: there was some question (was beginning to get a bit noisy) I decided :: to go for it-- chain failure on the 16v engine is supposedly a very :: bad thing. I could afford a new timing chain, but not a new engine :)
That's only the case on 89-91 9000 engines. The C900 kan run for 200,000+ miles on the original chain...
Cheers!
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in article slrnbsuo6q.10r.rotten_NOSPAM snipped-for-privacy@oragam.pizzle.org, John B at rotten_NOSPAM snipped-for-privacy@ccil.org wrote on 04/12/2003 16:27:

Touching wood (so to speak) :) Matron!
Back to the original poster:
Power window failures are to be expected with age. I think it was Grunff that said the motors rarely actually break, but the mechanisms just seize up. I have had the actual cog bit lose teeth on all my 900s. Parts for Saabs are now selling repair kits.
If it has an body kit, try to check there is no rust behind the side skirts. Look inside at the bottom of the doors. Look under the back seat for rust over the rear wheel arches. Look under the false floor in the for rust and/or standing water. You'll almost definitely find a golf tee under the false floor and/or foreign coinage :)
Apart from the usual checks, like body rust, gaping holes, awful noises when running and excessive gearbox or turbo whine, if it runs well and you like it - go for it. 900 turbos should whistle, but if it sounds like a helicopter at full throttle, the turbo is kippered. If it sounds like a jet when under load in 3rd or above, the gearbox is on its way out. That'll give you at least an indication of whether it's a good buy or not for the price. There will be things to replace, but there are always with a second hand, 10+ year old car. At that age, a whole load of factors come into play as to how good the car is.
Oh yeah, if it has an unusual smell, it's a good 'un. There's a buyers' guide over on Saab Central http://www.saabcentral.com/ and a lot of brochures, etc for you to peruse and get juicy over.
Good luck with your choice,
Paul
1989 900 Turbo S http://saab.go.dyndns.org /
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I only had 1 window fail, but in that case it was the motor actually. There was a lot of rust on the cog, but no rust elsewhere in the mechanism. A new (salvaged) motor fixed it right up.
I am a bit concerned about the potential for corrosion in the doors, since the moisture barriers in my doors are cracked into so many pieces, taped together, etc.
John
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rotten_NOSPAM snipped-for-privacy@ccil.org says...

Almost all of the 900's have coroded door, especially at the bottoms. Wash the car, rinse it off, and see where all the water runs from.
If you find good secondhand rustfree doors, hide them, don't use them. Coat them in a film of oil or greese, wrap in packing paper and store in the loft. Rust free Saab 900 doors will be worth seriosu money one day.
--
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says...

since the

together,
<Pops back in from workshop> Err anyone need any doors then? Got 3 pairs all good no rot. Their all freshly sprayed in 170B as well, I had some paint left over and I tend to dent doors a bit ;-)

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in article snipped-for-privacy@news.cis.dfn.de, MeatballTurbo at snipped-for-privacy@bouncing-czechs.com wrote on 05/12/2003 16:29:

No rust on my doors and my moisture barriers are intact :P

... along with working headlamp wiper motors :)
Paul
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says...

My headlamp motors work fine, unfortunatly(or fortunatley depending on your opinion) they are the old flat front style ones that go the wrong to more modern slopenose ones.
--
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Thanks everyone and particularly Mr Halliday, for the help, I'll be carefull with my buying, but anyway, i can't wait to have that car!!!!

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hugues snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com.invalid says...

Yopu won't regret it. Either you will learn that you love Saabs, and no matter how bad it gets, you will resurect it, or, you don't like Saabs afterall, but it will be solid and reliable until the car you really wanted after all comes along, and you will find a buyer for the Saab afterwards.
Enjoy it. They are addictive though
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Thank you. i will definitly enjoy it;
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in article snipped-for-privacy@news.cis.dfn.de, MeatballTurbo at snipped-for-privacy@bouncing-czechs.com wrote on 08/12/2003 12:07:

That's exactly the spirit! You're bitten now, eh?
One final piece of advice: Don't get two. It always *sounds* like a good idea to have another for spares, but you'll end up spending all your money trying to make the spare roadworthy.
Paul
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says...

Would love either a clean 2.3 9000, or a 2 door 16v 900 Turbo. Luckily fate lends a hand, and has me living in a house where there isn't enough parting for a 3rd car much bigger than a small hatchback.
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I've got an '83 900 Turbo 8V too, have driven it for about 10 years. For the service manual, spend the money and buy the Bentley manual. They are about $70USD. I am selling my car, and would happily sell you my slightly used manual for $45USD. Let me know if you are interested, otherwise I'll put it on eBay.
I have 310,000km on mine, original timing chain. Mine is an automatic, and I did need to have the transmission rebuilt at about 225K (>$3,000). My impression from reading this newsgroup is that this is not uncommon on turbo-charged Saabs. I have replaced the radiator, fuel pump, injectors, injector lines, battery, CV inner drivers (expensive), ball joints, tie rods, oil cooler high-pressure lines, plus your normal tune-up parts. It has had the odd electrical problem, (tough to diagnose, cheap to fix once you find it). Also replaced entire exhaust from manifold back over the years. My manifold is cracked but expensive and difficult to replace.
On the positive side, this car is built ROCK SOLID. Slam the back door and it sounds just like it did rolling off the assembly line 21 years ago. Power windows, door locks, mirrors, all still work. Heated seats need new elements but they'd work if I wanted to invest $300 or so.
The engine is solid, but... there are quite a few electronic parts, particularly having to do with exhaust emissions controls. As this is a pre-1985 (read pre-OBD) vehicle, there is no ECU to monitor what's working and what's not. All the tests in the manuals are INDIRECT tests, i.e. you test all the inputs to a particular relay. If they are all correct, and certain symptoms persist, you ASSUME the relay is bad and replace it. It can get expensive as there are lots of relays and other components whose failure causes similar symptoms. It's sort of halfway between the cars of the '70's -- which were very simple, carbeurated (for the most part), engines, hardly any electronics -- and the cars of the late '80's where you had onboard electronic diagnostics to help you out diagnosing electronic problems.
Lately my turbo is making strange sounds, hopefully doesn't die as before I sell the car. Oh, yeah, my power steering rack has leaked for about 7 years. My mechanic has been trying to get me to replace it but the way I see it, I spend about $5 for a bottle of power steering fluid every 6 months or so vs. $400 for a new rack.
Overall a good car, but plan on learning all about it and doing a fair bit of servicing yourself to keep your costs down. This newsgroup is an incredibly useful resource in that regard.
Make sure to check out the drivetrain/suspension parts, such as the ball joints and tie rod ends. If your inner drivers need replacement, you can feel the car shake when under load (going uphill) while turning.
Dave

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says...

And kind provide sympathy/shoulder to cry on when the repair project for the weekend got over ambitious :)
--
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in article snipped-for-privacy@news.cis.dfn.de, MeatballTurbo at snipped-for-privacy@bouncing-czechs.com wrote on 05/12/2003 16:48:

Sympathy and well wishing when one's beloved ride is totalled ... Joint celebrations (and whooping, hollering & "yeah"-ing from that side of the pond) when one's beloved ride gets fixed :)
Not to mention those unique brands of Hinz wit and Dexter oddness :)
Paul
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