SC2 seat problem

Um, I shoulda proofed that one, "I drive 45 min to work with my knees pointed up my rear " meant "and my rear", LOL.

Try a couple of washers or a shim under the rear seat mounting bolts, you may also need longer bolts. This will also raise your eye point and may give you better visibility.

Good luck, YMMV

Thanks, that sound slike a great idea. This won't compromise the grip on the mounting bolts though will it?

marx404

I am not sure what you mean by "grip on the mounting bolts". If you are referring to the depth of thread engagement in the floor nut, then this is something you should be concerned about and is why I cautioned that you may need longer bolts (they are probably? metric threads?). I do not have a rule of thumb for thread engagement but twice the dia of the bolt should be about right. Ideally the bolt should have 2-3 threads exposed under the nut. I have not looked but suspect that the seat bolts go through the floor with a captured (or welded) nut under the floor. If the bolt is too long then it will rust and be difficult to remove without damaging the threads of the nut. I would use some kind of undercoating to protect the exposed threads from rust, I find that oil based foundation coating works well but I use what ever is handy. I have not looked but suspect that the seat bolts are not under heavy loading as I suspect that the seat belt is independently secured but again I have not looked, YMMV.

You may be able to use the Y shaped shims used for aligning suspension and body panels. These will allow you to try differing heights without completely removing the bolts. I would also use 'NevrSeize' or similar anti-seize compound on the bolt threads, but then I use it on almost all bolts as it will result in increased clamping force and facilitate removal years later.

Good luck, YMMV

PS. This might be a good time to switch the seats right to left to equalize wear.