Avanti fact

To paraphrase a wise (old) sage from Arnold, MD; "there ain't no such thing as a cheap Avanti".

How are the Hog troughs?? Early on you said they were ok?

The cracked fiberglass on the door is common, I think it's a normal result of the action of rolling the window up & down. On most Avanti's you can see in-out movement of the arm rest when you operate the windows... for every action there's a reaction and the inner door panel takes the torque and resultant movement between the motor and the regulator; eventually it cracks. Improper adjustment can add to that normal situation. I've epoxied metal supports on the door panels of several Avanti's to stiffen the area between (and including) the motor (regulator) mount screws and the idler arm mount screws (the support ends up being a weird shape in order to fit flat within the recesses of the fiberglass). Deteriorated exterior "wiper" weatherstrip on the outside of the window, and blocked drains in the door bottom add to the internal rust problem.

I remember the parking lights being a PIA back in the 1970's...

JT

John Poulos wrote:

Snake Oil?

from the web site: Rust Stop uses the method of Cathodic Protection using impressed current. When installing Rust Stop, strips of aluminum electrodes, termed anodes are strategically attached to an area of the vehicle inside the engine compartment where most water is likely to collect or run. By outputting a positive charge of 45 Volts onto the anodes, the negatively charged free electrons are attracted toward the anodes and away from the body of the vehicle.

N.B. RUST-STOP functions extremely well due to the fact that the output voltage on the anode is approximately 45 volts, thus creating a large potential difference between the cathode (vehicle) and the anode, this in turn means the attraction of the electrons to the anodes is exceptionally strong making this system very effective.

1. Around here, the water tends to get thrown up into the wheel wells, undercarriage and around the rear bumper area. Engine compartment is usually pretrty greasy and rust protected.

1. WTF is impressed current?

2. The second paragraph is a lot of adjectives saying almost nothing.

1. No references, case studies, satisfied customers, or clear explanations of what and how.

Not gonna get MY $200.00 that way........

Mark (sounds too good to be true) Dunning

I'd call it snake oil. Cathodic protection was developed to protect metal parts that are IMMERSED in an electrolyte, such as water or damp soil. Pipelines and ships are typical examples. Car bodies usually aren't immersed, outside of New Orleans. An individual cathode can only protect that small area of metal that is moistened by an unbroken film of electrolyte that also envelops the cathode.

Look at the places where Studes commonly rust. You'd have to have 100 cathodes, and keep them turned on for the life of the car.

Not to mention the car body rusting isn't really caused by electrolysis anyway. The metal is simply oxidizing in the atmosphere, with moisture acting as a catalyst, more than anything else.

Gord Richmond

You have got it right Gord...I know from working with re-bar and concrete many years...

Lans>> I don't know about this system, but cathodic protection works. I

unbroken film of