There has been discussion on the Chevy truck forum about sound deadening and insulating material. It appears that Lowes and Home Depot sell a roofing material that is very similar to the more expensive Dynamat material.
Wonder about the long term aspect of it. Is the sealer part just a tar based material? Dynamat is styrene-butyadine-rubber- based material. I wonder if it compares well against the standard base Dynamat?
"Lee Aanderud" wrote..
I'm not sure, I know I've seen this stuff before at Lowes. I know I've used a rubberized roofing material that prevents ice damming, it came in a 30 inch roll. I remember that it was pretty expensive and didn't have the foil backing. I bet both Dynamat and this stuff are fun to remove once applied.
Lee
Hi Lee,
Timely post, as I have been thinking about what and how I will sound deaden the floor in my '54 in a few weeks as the seats come out and the new Historic Automotive carpet goes in for a new look.
The regular 30" Ice Shield doesn't have the foil covering IIRC so this stuff could work out well up against the front floor and other hotter areas.
Thanks for the tip. . . .
Henry Votel Forest lake, MN
I bought the Ice Shield in a 100' roll 36" wide. Cost me $80 IIRC. Cut this stuff in small pieces boys & girls - it is very STICKY and hard to handle in larger pieces if you're working alone.
Then bought some 1/4" aluminum foil insulation from Home Depot, enough to do the doors, floors, roof, rear seat bulkhead, firewall areas. Cost less than $50 for enough to do that. Dynamat costs a fortune. Like Jeff, I'm ummm, frugal.
Brooksie
I have been using a mix of products on my '62 Hawk. For the floors and doors I have used a brand called eDead v1. It is available at $1 a square foot on eBay. Over that goes a Dynamat Tac mat foam pad. For the roof I will spring for the Dynamat Extreme so I do not have to mess with mutiple layers. Also I have never heard a report of Dynomat coming unstuck. That is a real concern for anything over the head liner. If anyone on the forum wants a chunk of eDead v1 I will send you a scrap to look at. The eDead version 2 is a little thicker and cost a little more. With eDead you have to work with small strips or squares because the air bubles need to be forced out manually. The little hand roller gets the job half done. And smoothing the bubbles out to the edges with a plastic putty knife gets the remainder. Got to get out as much air as you can because it will heat up, expand, and start to pull the material off the surface it is stuck to. It is a lot more time consuming than I though it would be. The Dynomat may be easier to install, but I have not tried it yet On the Hawk I removed the interior. Stripped everything down to the mettle and Por-15 treated the whole inside. LEARN FROM MY MISTAKE: Cured Por-15 is great at resisting grease, solvents, and paints. It also repels the glue that this eDead stuff uses. I had a bunch peel off the firewall the first day my garage got hot. I thought the eDead was to blame until I noticed it only happened on the pieces stuck directly to Por-15 and on vertical surfaces. It got hot and gravity pulled it loose. The vertical areas that had primer over spray did not have the problem. So it was not that the eDead was bad; it was that cured Por-15 was that good. It would probably have the same effect on the more expensive sound deadeners too. Solution: bought some cans of Tri Coat self etching primer off the Por-15 web store and primed the trouble spots and the remainder of the uncovered interior. Now I primer in advance on any location I am going to stick any self adhearing sound deadener of any brand.
Tony in Austin
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