Power Steering Pump - Cleaning

believe it or not automatic transmission fluid is a better cleaner than it is lubricator, so just flush it with clean ATF.

Bill Glass wrote:

Naptha first mixing/rinsing well, follow with ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil

Why not take it apart; and replace the seal and "O"rings? No special tools are required; and the kit is cheap. Make sure you use the parts from the kit that allow the reservoir to vent at the center stud. The kits I've seen include parts for Fords, that seal that area; since Ford reservoir lids have a vent in the fill cap. If the reservoir isn't vented, pressure will force fluid out. Mike M.

I was not aware that there was a repair kit. Unfortunately, when the bearing went the shaft which holds thh pully is now way off center, I would say the shaft moved outboard by about 40/1000ths and the pully wheel now makes a lot of noise

bg

I was thinking of the Eaton pump used on the Stude Avanti's. SI sells the seal and gaskets/ "O"rings. I've heard there is a repair kit that replaces the guts; but I haven't seen it. Those pumps aren't that hard to find, new or rebuilt, anyway; since they were used by Ford, too. Of course, you may have another type pump. There is probably metal in the fluid throughout the system in your car, from the failed pump. You can trap a lot of it with a "cow magnet" in the fluid reservoir. I bought a couple at the feed store; and use them for that kind of thing. They catch all the little cows in there, too! Mike M.

I don't think that an exact replacement (New Departure) for the bearing is available but a slightly narrower version can be used. I have an old one, (That I have in my hand right now), but I washed it in barsol and all the grease is out of it and I don't think that there is an effective way of repacking it. But if you think that you can use it, you're welcome to it. The internal parts generally are not subject to a lot of wear.

JT

Bill Glass wrote:

Thank you, but I am reaady to install the new pump. Now if that doesn't work, I will take you up on your offer. Thanks

Are the eaton pumps known to run hot? Mine is leaking and needs at least resealed, but what should I look for to cause enough heat to prevent you from holding you hand to it when warmed up? No exessive noise, but I know it was run dry at one time. The fluid looked like metallic red paint. Bearings? Dave

Does anyone know a source for the internal parts of these pumps? If so, please let us know source and part number!

Thanks, Paul

If you mean the GM early pump, I have a spare carcass that had an mounting ear knocked off. Inside hard parts should be OK and seals are readily available.

JT

R1Lark wrote:

It will run hot as it creates somewhere around 900 psi on demand...

JT