Rear brake drum removal (AGAIN!)

did you oil the puller screw? that can make a difference. Also there is nothing wrong with using penetrating oil now, as long as you clean the taper and hub before reassembly. If worse comes to worse, you could try gently heating the hub while the puller is putting tension on it.

nate

Or you could try this; Remove cotterpin and loosen the nut about a half a turn, replace the pin. Drive 5 to 10 miles at moderate speed, making both right and left turns as often as possible. Braking as often as needed. This worked for me.

And, you can add a liberal dose of "heat" to the hub near the axle. DO NOT heat the axle itself. Most important, be patient and let it remain under pressure overnight if necessary..

JT

John Poulos wrote:

Why do I think that wouldn't be something good to get woke up by? Because it's not going to happen at 10:00 p.m., but at 4:15 a.m.. I get the impression that it's going to sound like someone knocked your tool box over onto the floor.

Lee

Yeah, last ones I pulled, ended up cutting the axle retaining bolts, pulled the axle and drum as an assy. took it to the shop on the press, and 15,000 lbs later they came apart! That was after beating on them for days and letting them sit with pressure over several nights! and heat applied too! Not sure if they had ever been off!

Jim

SNIP: The puller seems to not want to turn any more. __________________________________________

Tightening the puller screw by hammering on the slugging ears until they won't turn any further is merely the set up for the next step. Next step, use a sledge or a BIG hammer and hit the puller screw square on the head. Tighten the screw some more and hit it again. It may take several repetitions.

I'd try that loosening and driving bit but the reason I need to take off the drum is that I have no brakes. A while back, I limped home with the rear drum smoking--the cylinder had evidently frozen. So today I had a fun time, backing it out of my back yard and into my drive way. I really hadn't thot of the heat OR leaving it on overnite OR the penetraing oil wiped off after using it. I just didn't want the drum to crack. But tomorrow--I do it all WITH the BIGGER HAMMER!!

John

The drum should not crack if you are only pulling on the wheel studs. All the force is on the hub.

Just keep hitting hit, then when you least expect it, kapow, what a noise when it breaks loose.

BG

You know, somebody ought to try making up an accessory for drum pullers. Imagine a metal disc about the size of a hockey puck, comprised of a shallow piston and cylinder. Incorporate within it a chamber for a blank cartridge, just like a Ramset gun for concrete nails. ( One might be able to modify a Stude disc brake cylinder for this purpose.)

Just set up your puller, insert the "popper", and trigger it off. I suggest the triggering be done by a long pull string. That would administer a strong blow BETWEEN the puller and the axle, and should save the wheel bearing a beating.

I'm pretty certain that, if properly designed and built, such a gadget would work like a charm. Any comments?

Gord Richmond

Take a liberal dose of Pinch before retiring for the evening. You'll sleep right through it!

JT

Lee Aanderud wrote:

Heh! You evidently were being punished for those dogs you kicked when you were a kid...

JT

Jim Turner wrote:

Being "gentle" might be polite but it seldom gets things done.

Heat the MF up till it gives...

JT

Before or after throwing up?

Lee