Stude V8 using Edelbrock 1720 small block Mopar fuel pump

I've read that one can bend the lever to be like a Stude unit. Any body try this particular pump? Running on the original 52.000 mile pump. Want to prevent the inevitable from happeng if I can. NDY jimmijim

Holley offers one also, difference being. theirs is 1/4 inch npt in and out vs. Edelbrock's 3/8 inch in and out. Was going to ask over in the friendly forest land but it seems last time I checked there I was BARRED. Oh well, they've got their own problems. Like, How does one take off the interior door and window handles? Help George, anybody. jimmijim SNDY

As far as the Mopar pump... I have never tried to bend one myself, but I have one someone gave me to try laying on one of my benches...just haven't gotten around to trying it. It is actually a replacement for an R1 pump, and you can plainly see where the lever has been heated and bent, a very clean job. I am told it may not work on Hawks without modifying the engine mount brackets. With today's gas, there are many things to take into consideration when dealing with pumps....a book could be written about vapor lock and our cars and it is going to get worse. I would forget the mechanical pump and go full electric with a return line and a safety switch. Make sure you have the biggest baddest radiator core in between your tanks or a custom unit and make sure your block has been cleaned out. Block off the heat passages in the intake manifold and install an electric choke element; Daytona Parts Co. can supply one for whatever carb you are running. Toss the heat riser valve and install a spacer from one of our vendors. Use spacer gaskets/aluminum plates under the carb even if you have to make some. Use a multi blade fan without a clutch and turn up the radio to drown the noise. A variety of fans both flex and solid can be used with a small adapter spacer to go on the water pump and use the common GM/Ford?Mopar center hole fan. Most vendors can supply that. OPEN YOUR HOOD after a long run or punch a few dozen louvers in it... The list goes on, there is no single 'magic bullet'.. Studebaker George

George thanks for the response however I must warn you. You'll never get to be president of the SDC by responding to my posts. Ask Bob Schlawb.I agree with your advice but the fuel pump offered by Holley is so durn pretty. The bottom part is movable {somewhat like a dial so as to change in an out positions.} maybe this will help to clear from interference if issues arise.. I may buy one and return it if it is not applicable. Check your e-mail for pictures of door and rear 1/4 window panels made for me by Jim Lawrence FBN UPHOLSTERY. Studebaker guy. jimmijim

Everyone of daily driver Studebakers ended up with an electric pump. I will retain the original style pump on the Power Hawk but also have an electric to reduce long "dry" starts.

Make sure you have the biggest baddest radiator core

Personally, I've never had an overheating problem with a Studebaker even here in Texas hot summers. But a three row is extra insurance.

I like the clutch fans and a well fitted fan shroud makes a big difference. Oh, I only use 160° thermostats as well.

On the hawks, make sure that the flexfiber flap on the top of the upper radiator brace is intact. It forces air through the radiator rather than just let it pass above.

JT

I was just wanting a new stock type aftermarket mechanical pump to possibly ward off a fuel delivery failure on the road. That Holley pump is pretty. Right now my car starts pretty good daily and if left sitting for a month or so requires a bit of gas pedal finess and prayer before ignition. I have a worn out AC brand in my stash and may rebuild it if kits are available. Don't know if 63 Stude used Carter or AC or both. What say you folk?. Probably should as recommended get an electric one but I am older old school. My car has a clutch fan with a 2 row and it runs 185-90 with a 180 thermo The hood to radiator seal is gone years ago but will replace it. On the other hand being that it is absent may explain my car running at a decent temperature. I understand the premise of it being there but on the other hand. Oh well mine is missing and it's not at the top of the list yet. I have Studebaker air also but I won't use it in heavy stop and go traffic. Highway speed with air on 185. South Alabama summers. Block has never been cleaned internally or freeze plugs changed but probably before I get to be DY. {dead yeat} I can no longer work on my cars and have somebody in the area that works me in between his restoration jobs at a bit cheaper than his normal rate. He is competent and I trust him but so far I'm gonna need someone else for the A arm and rear spring eyes and shakle-bushings. I don't want to stress him out. Hoping to get George to do 'em. I've done a few Studes but out of the question now. Can I have an appointment at your Stude Rehab George? I can send the car down and back by transport so you won't have to wine and dine me at your bed and breakfast. jimmijim NDY

OK guys...the few left...... JJ...I would be happy to do your front end, but I am not cheep... And having the flu has backed me up as far as work..I am a one man band... I still have several cars that I need to finish... The heat issue...we routinely see over 100 in the summer....you can bet your butt we have figured out every little trick to help with vapor lock and like I said, there is no one magic bullet. Once again, sooner or later you will have to toss the mechanical pumps...the repops are junk anyway. If you want to use a clutch fan, use a big block Chevy with an adapter spacer to the water pump...thermostatic not cetrifugal and spend the few extra pennies for the HD unit. Stock Stude fan bolts to that clutch. BTW, anyone out there heard from Ray Ficthorn tell him to get in touch with me...there are a few large Grouper with our names on them waiting in the Gulf... Studebaker George