Hi all. First post. Does anybody know if there is an easy way to unstick the metering valve inside the body of the diesel injection pump? I've got to the stage on my rebuild where thought I was ready to start the thing, but after bleeding, I can't get any fuel out of the injector pipes. The pump was reconditioned, but has been empty for about 3 years. Any ideas?
Thanks
I have been successful in bleeding the last bit of air out of these by loosening the 9/16" dome nut on the banjos that the injector pipes screw onto at the pump housing.Normally only need to loosen one or two of them.Then turn the over on the starter.Be very careful re- tightening them as the alloy pump housing is quite thin there and does not have a lot of threads in it.Before you do that are you getting diesel out the bleed screws when you prime it? Mark.
I can get fuel out of the second bleed screw, but the first one is pretty dry - just a few small bubbles. The lift pump also seems to become inneffective after a few pumps - alsmost as if the system is pressurising. Any ideas?
Take the top cover of the pump.That is the cover which would be top if the pump was horizontal.Check the rack bar can move easily.The pump vanes may be stuck by corrosion due to the time its been lying dry,if they are you will need a new rotor head which is expensive and will have to be done at a fuel injection shop.Before doing that take the supply line from the lift pump off and make sure the diesel is pumping up ok.With either of the two bleed screws out,fuel should pump out when the manual pump is operated.Turn the engine over a bit to make sure the lift pump is not on top of the cam.If all else fails run it a bit on easy start with a couple of the dome nuts loose.If all that fails it`s the injection shop I`m afraid.
Great - I'll try that. Thanks
Hi Boys & Girls
1) Fill The Derv Filter With Derv & Screw it on 2) Check you have Derv In Tank (3Galls) 3) Turn Engine over Open Injector Pipes Until Derv pumps out Try That it should Start if Not Tow Start The BastardAll The Best
Skinty
"Life's A Bitch Then You Marry 1or 2 or 3"
On or around Tue, 8 Jan 2008 18:55:21 -0000, "skinty" enlightened us thusly:
top tip for changing fuel filters, that. Usually, you can avoid needing to bleed it at all, assuming it was running to begin with.
Basically, wot he sed. Big battery well-charged, have assistant hold the key to turn it over and bleed at the injector tops one at a time until you get diesel at all of them, and no froth or air.
If it hasn't started at that point, (we're talking an SIII here) and assuming it's still got battery power, stop and give it about a minute on the preheaters then try again.
If it still won't go then it's either dud injectors or the timing's off. (or maybe dud glowplugs). A tow-start should work as well, but you need to bleed it first.
Full throttle as you do this.
Never slacken the banjo connections to bleed the injector pipes, always slacken at the injectors.
The bleed screw on the main pump body is the one you want, the one you are already getting fuel out of. It's normal for the other to just blow a few bubbles and you can bleed that one later when it's running. And the system IS pressurising after a few pumps, also normal, and, incidentally, shows that the lift pump is in the right place on the cam as you wouldn't pump anything at all (or very little) if it wasn't.
Great - I'll try that. Thanks
You don't really want to be stripping the pump if you don't know how it is set up, and you don't want to be using easy start on these engines, they don't like it, and you can/will break piston rings if you're not careful.
Martin
I think you may have a problem filling the fuel filter on a Series 2 or 3 before you mount it.
You can avoid needing to bleed the injector pump and pipes if you mount the new filter, remove the top air bleed banjo and hand pump the fuel up until it comes out of the top with no bubbles, replace the banjo bolt after also checking that the small hole is clear, then slacken the outlet pipe on the filter body enough so that you can wriggle the pipe loosely, give a few more pumps on the lift pump while the pipe is loose and a small amount of air will be expelled around the pipe which always gets trapped in the top of the filter head, then tighten said pipe whilst still operating the lift pump. No air will have then got to the injector pump so start up is normal.
Loosen at least two of the pipes at the injectors (any two) or preferably all at once and you can stand at the side, turn the engine over, accelerator down and watch past the bonnet to see if fuel is coming out and when it does retighten the pipes and start as normal.
If you use the series connected preheaters for a minute you are likely to burn them out, 10 seconds max is enough, if you need more then there is something wrong. My Series 2 takes 7 secs winter and 5 or 6 any other time and I reconditioned it about 26 years ago, breathing slightly now but still starts well.
Martin
On or around Wed, 9 Jan 2008 12:03:20 -0000, "Oily" enlightened us thusly:
true, some you can't do easily, then you have to do the technique you describe below...
hmmm. maybe I've only experienced ones with iffy heaters. I had a sherpa
1.8 that needed 90 seconds on a cold morning, heaters were just slow.MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.