86 GL lifters-bad sign

Been a good 20 year run.

Don't want to diddle with this myself, and know it'll be WAAAAY more than it's worth.

Momma and the kids are rejoicing, "maybe Daddy will get a car with auto this time".

Lucas oil to the (short term) rescue. :(

Reply to
pheasant
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I had the same thing with my old 86. That loudish ticking. I suspect that Subarus oil spec may have something to do with it. While everyone else was going to 5W oils Subaru spec'd the 15W. This may, over time, have prevented effective lube of the whole lifter mech's. Ah well, Like you say it was a good 20 year run. Actually the car is still on the road. Some teenager ended up with the car and it clacks it's way by quite often. My brother used to have a solution for noisy exhausts and stuff.... He would buy a bigger amp.

Reply to
Grolch

"Grolch" wrote in news:Z0igg.5119$A8.3252@clgrps12:

Actually the problem may not be the lifters at all.

Many of the older Soobies had a problem with the "O" ring sealing the oil pump. As the ring hardens/shrinks with age it allows the pump to suck air past it and deliver foamed oil to the lifters. The seals are cheap but the labor to R&R the pump if you can't do it yourself may be more than the car is worth.

Normally by the time the oil pump seal is a problem the cam seals are also leaking. If you're planning to fix either problem the other is a small extra charge.

later, Joe

Reply to
Joe Kultgen

Excellent post! Also, on some sube models newer than yours, the tensioner can be noisy - though it is usually reported as more of a knock noise.

Carl

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Replacing the oil pump can't be much more than a couple bolts and a gasket eh?

Any firm way to diagnose it before I order a pump and spend an afternoon replacing it.

If that's all it would be it'd be a cheap, cheap fix.

The Lucas oil makes it run so quiet I've forgotten about the noise, but if this would be a fix, I'd gladly waste the 4 new quarts of Mobil1 and start over.

Yep the cam seals make it look like an old AMF hog was parked there, but don't want to tear down timing belts and water pump for that.

Thanks Mark

Reply to
pheasant

Thanks Joe!

Vacation next week has a new project. Painting the house can wait. ;)

Mark

Reply to
pheasant

"pheasant" wrote in news:WZudne_Fr6rBWRnZnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@midco.net:

The pump itself is usually OK. What you're looking for is the "O" ring that goes around the pump body and the shaft seal. They're usually sold as a "pump installation kit".

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Bad news is you have to pull the timing belt to get the pump off. That's why it's a good idea to replace camshaft seals at the same time. By the time the pump leaks the cam seals are also leaking if they haven't already been replaced and it isn't that much extra labor to do them too.

Later, Joe

Reply to
Joe Kultgen

Hi,

While you're in there, replace the front crank main seal, too! And on your oil pump, do the small seal on the front as well as the two o-rings (two on mine, at least) on the back (they should all be in the kit.)

Many advise to go ahead and replace the water pump while you're in that far. Don't know what the timing chain/belt arrangement is on your car, but if it uses belts, replacement of the belts and idlers should be done along with the cam seals, too. Use OEM belts for best service!

Rick

Reply to
Rick Courtright

Yep! Just did the water pump about 2 months ago. :\ But yes, the belts only 3 years old, but since I gotta dig it all apart will spend the extra 40 and do them too.

Yeah, wish the oil pump would have been just a couple bolts and a gasket. After working on Chevy small blocks these imports leave lots to be desired from a tinkerer's perspective. (mebbe it has something to do with age and schedules too)

Thanks for the reply! Mark

Reply to
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