cv boot replacement

It's easy with the right tools, them being a big-ass breaker or cheater bar to get the nut off, and a proper punch to drive out the pin. And you'll need a big old torque wrench to put the nut back on.

I had to fabricate a punch with a concave end to get the new pin started.

I put a Jiffy Boot on a CV joint. It is split, and wraps around, and held together with screws and nuts. I sealed the seam with rubber cement to make it better. Been on about 5yrs, thought not that many miles.

VF

I just replace my half shafts today. They were $53 each at Checkers with a lifetime guarantee. The one thing I noticed is that the hole where the pin goes on the inner CV joint didn't seem to be drilled in the absolute center. To line up the pin after I just wouldn't align the first time, I had to remove the inner joint and spin it 180 deg and then the pin went right in.

Have noticed the pin is only installable if the shaft is positioned the one-way, too, not sure the reasoning behind it.

~B

I ended up buying the half shaft as well. $65

Guess I got it positioned right on the first try. I didn't notice it wasn't centered.

Notes on axles: Not needed to remove the tie rod. A air hammer with a pointed bit if the axle is froze into the spindle. I have a long punch with a inch and half long tubing around it. When I put the axle back in (the correct way!) I slide the tubing over the roll pin to hold it to the punch. Replaced a boot and endseal 3 days ago, Time was about 30 minutes, and I'm the slow guy in the shop.... Steve, ASE Master Tech Working at a Subie shop...