Hi All,
This is the panel I complained about the sealer pealing on:
Also, can I spray an additional polyurethane sealer over it to provide extra protection from sunlight?
Many thanks,
-T
Hi All,
This is the panel I complained about the sealer pealing on:
Also, can I spray an additional polyurethane sealer over it to provide extra protection from sunlight?
Many thanks,
-T
Is this on the inside of the vehicle? I ask because the image at
Usually I put a small pry bar (most curved end) underneath the panel to pry up on the panel while using my hand to pull out the panel. This is to try to not damage the ribs too much or to tear the slot in the panel the washer head of the stud slides into. This assumes you are going to reuse the panel, like when you have to remove the interior door panels to get at the glass window and mechanism or the door locks.
The image you gave at the etailer doesn't list the parts it shows in the
2nd image on the page you gave a link. Tis a pity since they might have their own part number to find out what is that washer-headed stud they depict to use with that panel. You might want to ask them for a parts list for their graphic layout of that assembly.I found another graphic layout of this assembly that has links to the various parts shown in the image but it is a Russian web page. It's at
Ah, at the same page you linked to, I clicked on the "Glass & Hardware" link in blue text. That gave me a clickable list of parts. I clicked on "5" for the clip and scrolled down the list to #5. Alas, it looks like the stud or clip comes with the panel probably because the stud is expected to get damaged when the panel is pulled off. Once you pry off the panel and if the stud gets damaged, you can wander around the car parts shops since some carry an array of such type studs. You might not find the exact same stud but there might be one that's close enough.
This isn't an interior panel? I would think an exterior panel exposed to the sun and whose paint had flaked would have more than just a press-in stud to hold it onto the car body.
You would have to sand the plastic panel and use vinyl spray paint to recoat it. The plastic parts will flex so the paint must do the same. Watch the following video for some pointers on painting plastic parts. The prep work is what takes the most work and time. This seems to be an axiom with all paint jobs: prep determines result.
Might find out here:
I can't figure out which manual. Can't read enough Russian. :-(
As "Your Name" suggests, put it in google translate:
This is body manual:
Hi Frank,
Not finding that pillar. Rats!
-T
Hi Vanguard,
Than you!
This is the exterior pillar between the passenger window glass and the back side glass
-T
I tried. It is tedious to look through this stuff.
Frank
Since this is such a pain did you think about just plastidipping the part and leaving it alone?
Do you have a picture, I wonder how this thing looks 'live.'
Basia
2000 Impreza L Coupe 2013 Forester XT
No pictures. It looks like come clear coating has started to peal and bubble.
Since it is a plastic part- no worry about corrosion, I would consider plastidipping it for a fix.
Plastidip is so easy to apply- you just spray it from a can onto the surface, and around it, then peel off the excess from surrounding area (google it, plenty of videos on youtube).
It stays on for a year or two, maybe longer.
Visually plastidip is very pleasing and many colors are available to match. It takes 10 minutes to apply two, three coats. If you screw up just peel it off, and redo.
A can costs around 8 bucks at Pepboys. Armor-all has Black, White and Clearcoat plastidip equivalent, its called Custom Shield. Same thing just in a bigger can
11 oz vs 8, or so. 8$ at Pepboys, 12$ at Walmart.Basia
This is a good one on how to apply.
Basia
If you are into good looking guys this one is even better:
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