Trouble Starting 96 Subaru Outback Legacy and Moving out of Park

Recently, my Subaru has had trouble starting. It will click, but not turn over. I have had the battery, starter, and alternator checked at Sears and they couldn't find a problem. I've done a diagnostics test and it came clean. I've gone through about 3 batteries in the last year and a half. I recently checked the battery myself and it is holding a charge and is being charged by the alternator. What could be causing this problem?

Also recently, after I am finally able to start it (after the 100th turn of the key) the gear stick will not allow me to move it out of park. It has gotten colder outside, but I don't think that should have any bearing on it. I spoke to one of Subaru's service guys and he thinks it is related to the alternator. The car has almost 117,000 miles on it and the alternator has been changed after a recall (a little less then 10 years ago with it's previous owner).

I'm not sure if it is related to the other two problems, but it also gets terrible gas milage, about 200-250 per tank where it should be getting well over 300. I've changed the air filter, put additives in my fuel to clean the system a little bit more, new tires...it had all fluids flushed when I purchased it about 2 1/2 - 3 years ago, oil changes are up to date, spark plugs and wires were changed a little over a year ago.

If you know anything, help:)

Reply to
Debbie
Loading thread data ...

Have you checked the air intake and emissions systems?

Reply to
Ragnar

Although I hesitate to make too many suggestions since a real mechanic has examined the car, I'd suggest first that you likely have more than one problem. I'd say the solenoid contatcs may be worn. While they can be serviced, it's usually better to just get a new/rebuilt starter installed. Dunno why a meachanic didn't suggest this. Bad mileage can sometimes be due to an Engine Temp Sensor being bad. Though other sensors (like front O2 sensor) could also be bad or 'lazy'.

Maybe take your car to another mechanic.

I dunno

Carl

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

All the mechanics have done was to tighten up the battery terminals and hook it up to a computer. Are the solenoid contacts inside of the starter? Out of curiousity, what is their function? As far as the Engine Temp Sensor, would the emissions test pick that up? It recently passed. I had an Isuzu Rodeo that failed due to O2 sensors that were afer market and I had to fight with Carmax to get them to pay for the service since they sold me the car with the aftermarket parts. Thank you for your advice.

Reply to
Debbie

I've changed the air filter and I'm assuming that the entire system is clean since it passed emissions recently.

Reply to
Debbie

If the non-starting symptoms are as follows; turn key, hear a loud-ish click from engine compartment but engine not turning and lights on dash or headlights etc. stay 'normal'; probably the solenoid contacts are corroded/intermittent. BUT, if the lights dim a LOT, probably the starter has intermittent short. In either case - new starter is best. (there are rebuild kits for most solenoids - but the labor would be the same as a new starter)

If different sypmtoms - well, tell us. Also, is the Check Engine Light on?

Oh, yes, there have been many people have bad Engine Temp Sensors with no CEL codes.

Perhaps if you post the city you're in, someone can recommend a mechanic .

Carl

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

I *LOVE* these "guess and by golly" answers.

The PRIMARY cause of starting failures is in the starter and it's alignment with the flywheel gear.If the nosepiece and or the bendix drive are too tight they will not allow the gear on the end of the drive to mesh with the flywheel. When this happens the contacts will not engage the starter motor. This problem will manifest itself as a mild "clank" or loud CLICK as the bendix drive hits the edge of the wheel instead of meshing. Have a GOOD mechanic check and see if your model of starter requires a "Shim" to be installed between the nosepiece and the block. When people replace their own starters they usually forget this Shim.If it needs to be replaced a piece of metal about .010 inches will do the trick.

Reply to
Backfire Burrito=Skidmark

Sounds reasonable, Backfire, and I've often wondered myself if somehow the gear teeth just weren't lining up, as I'm now on my 3rd Subaru that has developed this starting difficulty. But I also wonder why would the starter work fine without the shim for years, then all of a sudden develope an intermittent, ever increasing need for the shim? I've had one of the failing starters rebuilt, and it worked, for a week, then it was back to the same clicking nonsense, so I grabbed a starter from the wrecking yard, swapped in the new parts, and it too worked for about a week. What are the chances the magnetic coil which pulls the plunger inside could be a source of failure, as that's the one part I never replaced in the used starters?

~Brian

Reply to
strchild

because his guess MUST be better than mine.

Carl

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

This applies to models older than yours but I suspect little if anything was changed. The GL and Loyale models have no starter relay. Current flows from the battery, through the ignition switch when in the crank mode, and then to the statrter solenoid. When resistance builds up in either the ignition switch or at the wiring harness connectors you end up with the exact same problem you have because not enough current is making it to the starter solenoid. Check the ignition switch for resistance and inspect the ignition switch connectors. A simple test if you are not afraid of electricity is to use a 10 or 12 guage wire to jump from the positive post of the battery directly to the starter solenoid. If the starter cranks over then the problem is either the ignition switch or its wiring harness.

Reply to
johninKY

The "Solenoid" portion usually is trouble free.The magnetic coil and large "slug" it pulls to engage the bendix rarely fail.The contacts are hit by the disk when the cslug bottoms out,making sure the drive gear/clutch assembly is firmly meshed before the motor begins to crank.... While those contacts DO fail due to burnt offerings or contamination..the magnetic coil usually continues to work. The failure mode is when the end bearing on the starter gets sloppy and the end of the Bendix gear strikes the edge of the flywheel instead of meshing with the teeth on the gear. If the voltage to the solenoid is low for any reason it WILL NOT pull in.If you hear a mechanical "tick" or "Clank" from the starter..it's the missing shim or tired bearing in the starter motor.Most of the time the engine will stop and the gear will line up just fine...Check your FSM for a procedure on replacing the starter...see if it calls for a shim.

Reply to
Backfire Burrito=Skidmark

No....you missed the point entirely....yours is a guess...mine is FACT..... MAJOR differance. You publicly admit you dont know often... I think the OP was looking for a real answer..not a "Guess"

Reply to
Backfire Burrito=Skidmark

The suggestion for air filter and emissions check was pretty comical, as well.

She says there's a click (there's under-dash relays to click, aside from starter solenoid), and talked about problems with tranny selector...how about a loose/flaky neutral start switch?

Reply to
CompUser

we're all guessing.

Carl

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.