64 T-Bird brake lights not working

Are you sure that was the brake light switch and not the bad pressure switch you replaced?

I could be wrong, but thought the brake light switch was inside above the pedal.

Mike

Given that your 64 originally had a pretty complicated mechanism to make the nifty sequential turn-signals work, THAT could be the problem unless its already been bypassed or replaced.

I think Mike is right!!! If I remember correctly from my Ford days, Ford did not use the brakelight switch to disengage the first generation cruise control, they used a pressure switch off the mastercylinder. Like Mike side the brakelight switch is above the pedal and had threaded mount so you could adjust.

Rick

As an old Ford line mechanic, the relay you are describing on the front fender shield doesn't ring any bells, but ........

The brake light / directional relay is in the "Baggy" under the rear package shelf with the sequential turn signal motor and switch. It is all wrapped up with insulating material to reduce the mechanical noise from the mechanical sequencer. ( Look in the trunk, up under the rear package shelf in the center.) As I recall, failure of this relay was quite common.)

Let us know if this info points you in the right direction (so to speak) !!

"Dano" wrote

It's a crappy pic, b&w not color, and you probably already have a better pic or maybe even an actual manual, but...

If the relay in the trunk appears to be good, I believe the brake light circuit also runs through the turn signal switch in the colunm (I don't think they used blocking diodes but when you move the turn signal switch, it physically disconnected the brake lights for the bulb cluster and sent the voltage to the sequencer). I doubt it would be a common failure but if it is corroded or a wire is loose in a connector, could be where the open circuit is. An accurate wiring diagram would be useful...

good luck. I have a 1970 Cougar and only 1 side sequences as my back gave out fighting to figure out why the other side wouldn't (it does have the solid state unit in the trunk with a block of relays. Replaced sequencer and relays with salvage yard stuff and no help).

I thought the sequentials came in with the 1965 model and stayed through '66 (and the sequencer was still mechanical).

I'm not as familiar with the '64 but a relay near the front fender (like, inside the passenger compartment, behind the kick panel?) might be a current-sensing relay that uses the fender-mounted turn signal indicators as a way of telling you whether there is a burned-out bulb at the back end. As Dave Barry might put it, I am not making this up.

Those 65-66 cars (again, maybe the '64) had a "stop lamp relay" in the

Anyway. The original poster has found a relay somewhere that, when jumpered, gives him brake lamps. The question is, is that the *right* relay, or does jumpering it just backfeed electricity along a wire of quite likely inadequate size? Time to look in the trunk, I think...

When the correct relay is found, the way to test it is to see if the brake lamp switch (in the master cylinder? Hmm. I'm thinking that the brake pedal would be a more customary locale -- time to assume the "Jacques Cousteau goes off the back of the rubber raft" position, with safety glasses on and flashlight in hand) is indeed supplying voltage at the right times; if this voltage is making it to the relay; and if the relay is grounded (crunchy ground connections are problematic on all older cars, especially these Main Street Electrical Parade jobbies).

--Joe

Correcto...!

Right on Joe..

Also, I think the "relay" in the kick panel is the "clicker" to make you aware that the signals are working correctly by the sound..

and the brake light switch is much more likely to be on the brake pedal push rod under the dash. (As in the previously posted wiring schematic).

Although I do remember the 64 set up may have had a hydraulic switch on the master ????

However, the major failure point was always the stop light relay in the "Submarine Sandwich" pack in the trunk.

Bob (Trying hard to remember back that far), Flumere.

I feel your pain, or at least have done so. (Though putting the oil pan back on was the only thing about the Bird that ever actually sent me and my ice packs to the doctor. I got a scrip for pain pills and muscle relaxants and a lecture about how I wasn't a kid anymore and needed to warm up, stretch, and take breaks rather than working for extended periods in unusual positions. Words of wisdom for lots of situations, including clacking away at the computer.)

I've never really torn into the 68-70 circuitry, but the 65-66 has a single sequencer, and a double-barreled solenoidal relay with an octopus's worth of wires coming out, whence output goes to one side or the other.

I am thinking that failure to sequence on one side but not the other could have only two causes in that system (again, dunno how similar yours is):

1. One side is not activating the sequencer. Could be the turn signal switch or anything downstream of it, up to the sequencer.
2. That solenoidal relay -- it isn't getting input, or one side of it is nonfunctionoid.

So when your back returns to normal, see if the non-sequencing side is getting a signal to the sequencer, and then whether the sequencer output is getting into -- and out of -- whatever *else* stands between the sequencer and the actual lights.

If you've replaced these things, check connections, a notorious source of wiring troubles.

--Joe

Hey everyone, I appreciate all the responses in reference to the 64 T-Bird brake light problem. I have resolved the issue. Replaced the wiring and connections along with relay on drivers front fender. Lights ARE operational. Thanks again! Dano in TN