Acura Brakes

I'm planning to replace pads & rotors on my mother's 2000 Acura TL this weekend. I've done lots of disk brakes but never on an Acura. Anything special I should be aware of? Thanks...

Reply to
M.M.
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Nothing out of the ordinary... In fact very easy.. (Rear calipers have to be wound in to install the new pads)

Reply to
BobJ

Thanks for the info. As long as I can get out the screws that hold the front rotor to the hub I think I should be in good shape. I'll probably tackle it tomorrow...

Reply to
M.M.

"M.M." wrote in news:MxhEj.6386$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe12.phx:

If you live in an area that has snow, removal of those little screws will probably do zero good in removing the rotors.

Reply to
Tegger

The rotors don't tend to weld themselves so bad that a good smack with a large hammer won't loosen them.

The bigger problem are the screws. An impact driver is the tool for the job.

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Reply to
AZ Nomad

Yep, I have one...and a big hammer...and we don't get much snow down here in AZ so hopefully it won't be to difficult.

Now I find out that it's due for a timing belt (3.2L V6)...not sure I want to tackle that...

Reply to
M.M.

"M.M." wrote in news:HwmEj.72774$497.23456 @newsfe14.phx:

Don't use a big hammer.

If the rotors won't come off easily, ask here for a non-destructive technique that uses an 8oz (half pound) ball-peen hammer.

Reply to
Tegger

First you say that rotors tend to weld themselves so bad that a good smack with a large hammer won't loosen them. Then you say the opposite that even a small hammer will loosen them.

What are you trying to say?

Reply to
AZ Nomad

Please share...

Reply to
M.M.

"M.M." wrote in news:UtvEj.72791$497.19542 @newsfe14.phx:

After raising the car, securing it and removing the road wheel, do this:

1) Get an 8oz ball peen hammer. That's a half-pounder; a little guy. 2) Remove caliper and its mount bracket. 3) With ball end of hammer, tap on the side of the "top hat", about as hard as you'd vigorously knock on a door. Maybe a bit harder 4) Tap as close to the friction surface as you can, to make sure your blows are as far away from the hub as possible. You will damage the friction surface with occasional misaimed whacks, but you're replacing the rotor anyway. 5) Turn the rotor and keep tapping. Turn and tap, working your way around the "top hat". 6) Eventually (a minute or less), you'll start to hear and see rust breaking up and falling out the bottom of the rotor. 7) Keep tapping and turning. 8) At some point, you should be able to make the rotor move by wiggling it with your hands. Find out where it's still stuck, and concentrate your hammering there. 9) Once it's loose enough, THEN you hit the rotor from the back, to drive it off the hub.
Reply to
Tegger

AZ Nomad wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@ip70-176-155-130.ph.ph.cox.net:

Both things at once. For different reasons. Brute force does less in this case than judiciously applied light shocks.

After raising the car, securing it and removing the road wheel, do this:

1) Get an 8oz ball peen hammer. That's a half-pounder; a little guy. 2) Remove caliper and its mount bracket. 3) With ball end of hammer, tap on the side of the "top hat", about as hard as you'd vigorously knock on a door. Maybe a bit harder 4) Tap as close to the friction surface as you can, to make sure your blows are as far away from the hub as possible. You will damage the friction surface with occasional misaimed whacks, but you're replacing the rotor anyway. 5) Turn the rotor and keep tapping. Turn and tap, working your way around the "top hat". 6) Eventually (a minute or less), you'll start to hear and see rust breaking up and falling out the bottom of the rotor. 7) Keep tapping and turning. 8) At some point, you should be able to make the rotor move by wiggling it with your hands. Find out where it's still stuck, and concentrate your hammering there. 9) Once it's loose enough, THEN you hit the rotor from the back, to drive it off the hub.
Reply to
Tegger

Thanks but it turns out I didn't need the hammer at all. The screws came out with one hit on the impact tool and both rotors came off with one pull. It was a very easy job, as one of the other responders said. I guess not living in snow/ice/salt country makes a difference.

Reply to
M.M.

"M.M." wrote in news:oXEEj.23230$CD7.21387 @newsfe11.phx:

As a prisoner of the Rust Belt, I hate all Arizonans on principle.

Nobody who has suspension parts that still retain their factory paint after eight years should be allowed to live.

Sorry, I'm just feeling sorry for myself... :(

Reply to
Tegger

At least you can leave a car outside without it becoming too hot to touch.

Also car batteries only last 3 years before being killed by the heat.

Reply to
AZ Nomad

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