Another Rustproofing Question

I posted a message a while ago, regarding the best lubricant for rustproofing the interior of various car body cavities. I decided to go with Rust Check, which is commonly available here in Canada and comes highly recommended. But today I discovered that there are two different grades of this stuff. The general purpose stuff, in the red can, is the most common. But there's also a "Coat and Protect" in a green can, which is supposedly heavier. What exactly is the difference between the two, and which is better suited for my purpose?

Reply to
Chris F.
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"Chris F." wrote in news:49e64473$0$5464$ snipped-for-privacy@news.aliant.net:

"Coat and Protect" is excellent for areas that might be otherwise inaccessible, which would not be treated in the normal treatment, and which are subject to water flow but not road splash. The cowl, for instance. You'd spray the stuff all over inside the cowl once you had full access to the cowl.

"Coat and Protect" does NOT creep, and creeping is how Rust Check/Krown inhibit rust on the inner surfaces of the body panels. "Coat and Protect" also plugs drain holes, so for those reasons is unsuitable as a substitute for the "red can" stuff.

The stuff in the red can is a thinner version of what's applied at the Rust Check location and would be used for the same purpose. One location you'd do yourself with the red can is behind fender splash panels. The area behind the splash panels may not be properly (if at all) treated in the Rust Check process. It's up to you to remove them and coat the entire surface with Rust Check before putting the panels back. I'm almost thinking "Coat and Protect" would be better for that, knowing what I know now. Also Krown T40 is a bit thicker than the red-can stuff, but still creeps. I find it's better for touchups. T40 is only available at Krown locations.

Neither "Coat and Protect" nor the red can stuff is capable of protecting surfaces subject to road splash.

Oh, one more thing the red can is absolutely superb for: Your locks. Spray the stuff into the locks until it spills out, then wipe up. Keeps that all- important weather flap from breaking and falling open., and acts as an excellent lubricant for the tumblers. Works on the ignition lock as well. At temperatures below about 0F, Rust Check will cause the locks to be a bit stiff to turn, but that goes away with temperature rise.

There are other methods of keeping rust at bay in other locations not well- served by Rust Check/Krown formulations. Ask if interested.

Reply to
Tegger

What kind of grease / lubricant is suitable for areas subject to road splash? I ask because there are certain areas which cannot be covered with rubber undercoat, such as around bushings, tie rod ends, etc.

Reply to
Chris F.

"Chris F." wrote in news:49e76fa5$0$5496$ snipped-for-privacy@news.aliant.net:

Stuff like bushings and tie rod ends cannot be reliably protected from anything, so don't even try.

Balljoints already have boots to keep grease in and the weather out. Bushings are solid rubber bonded to steel sleeves. Time and motion make them go bad, not weather.

Reply to
Tegger

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