Bleed ABS system (93 Chevy)

Feb 05, 2007 4 Replies

I have a '93 Chevy Suburban K2500 4x4. When I look up parts for it, I always need to tell them that it's "over 8300 lbs" or 8600 lbs. I believe I have 4 wheel ABS on this truck. Recently, I blew out a flex line in the LF wheel, and by the time I got home, the entire system was completely drained and the brakes were absolutely gone.



So... I bench bled the master cylinder, replaced the flex lines, replaced the front calipers, and went to bleed out the system. I have a Haynes book that generally has some good information in it and it says I can bleed out the ABS, but it's sketchy in one spot. It says (paraphrasing here):


  • Push in the needle valve in the front of the combination valve and hold it in for the entire process
  • Bleed (in the usual manner: RR,LR,RF,LF)
  • Bleed the "Isolation/Dump valve"
  • Re-Bleed at each wheel again
  • Release the needle valve
  • Done.

The problem is that there is no description of where the "Isolation/ Dump" valve is, and it is not shown in any pictures. There is a chunk of metal on the fender that I call "an ABS unit" which I assumed was what they were talking about - it indeed has 2 bleed nipples on it. It also has the lines from the combination valve going to it, and then it has 4 lines going out (1 to each wheel). So I went to bleed it and no fluid would come out of the unit at all. Also, pressure on the brakes did not change at all when opening/closing the bleeder screw on "the ABS unit". After a number of tries, I gave up on it and just re-bled the wheels, and took it on a drive. After you start it up, the ABS light comes on and it stays on. The brakes work okay, but there is absolutely no ABS going on (tested on some ice).



So does anyone have a clue as to what the "isolation/dump" valve is and how you bleed it? Is it the thing I'm calling "the ABS unit"? If so, why couldn't I get fluid out of it?



TIA,



--Jeff



There are no bleed valves on the master cylinder, and none that I can see on the combination valve (under it). Are you saying that the combination valve is the same thing as the "isolation/dump valve"? The combination valve has 2 lines going in (from the master cylinder) and

2 lines going out (to "the ABS unit"). It also has an electrical connection on top (1 wire - either a solenoid or a sensor - I believe it's a solenoid to control the valve inside). On the front of the combination valve is a rubber boot that you remove to push in the needle for when you bleed the system (per the manual). The back has a boot too that I have not taken off, but it seems too small to hide a bleed valve. I'll check it though. The only way I see to bleed the combination valve is to crack the lines a bit, which I'm guessing isn't correct. I can pass along some pictures of the unit if that'd help - it's fairly simple looking: Master cylinder has two lines going to the combination valve, which has two outbound lines going to "the ABS unit" which has 4 lines, one going to each wheel. There are electrical connections on the combination valve and on "the ABS unit".

Thanks,

--Jeff

For future reference, the purpose of a dual master cylinder isn't to get you home. It's to keep you from wrecking your car. Don't drive it like that!

Yup!

That's it!!

The back has a

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