Me again with my '88 Civic project. This question concerns replacement of the bushings - mainly, the two large trailing arm bushings. These were badly cracked (one was coming apart) and will obviously need replacement, but it's clear that will not be an easy job. Removing the old ones doesn't look to hard - I removed the first quite easily by drilling through and cutting away at it, then using acetone to help peel off the last bits of rubber from the collar in which it was housed. But then there's the question of installing the replacement, starting with - what type. Factory original replacements are now available for these Hondas, but these are made from the same old inferior rubber as the previous ones. Polyurethane replacements are also available, but these have a reputation for coupling more vibration to the chassis. Then there's an interesting, albeit very expensive option, as seen here:
Bushings Replacement Questions
You have to get the last piece out. That collar is part of the bushing.
Either a press or maybe that ebay part will work. I would recommend you start soaking the collar in a good penetrating oil several times a day until the puller comes and then maybe you will have a chance of getting it out. Rust bonds on collars are plain nasty.
I think I would even try to slice the collar with a hack saw or reciprocating saw to let the tension off with the thought the collar will then peel out.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > Me again with my '88 Civic project. This question concerns replacement of
I am currently collecting parts for my mustang to replace all the suspension bushings. To avoid the hassle of pressing out bushings and balljoints and pressing new ones in I just decided to get new control arms. upgraded ford ones from the 2003 cobra for the front and aftermarket rear lowers. Stock ford uppers (they were cheap, so cheap it wasn't worth my time even thinking about swaping bushings)
What I did was I decided first how far I wanted to go with the suspension. Which wasn't very far. The aftermarket stuff will allow me to re-engineer the entire suspension if I so desire. I imagine with the civic following out there you have that option as well. From your post you seem to want to stay mostly stock.
The best thing to do is probably lurk around civic forums and find out which aftermarket suspension vendor really knows their stuff and has explainations regarding different bushing and control arm choices for your car. For mustangs one of these places is
OK here is the low buck shade tree method of control arm bushing replacement.
Remove the old bushing. - The low buck way is to use a torch to burn out the rubber and steel center, then use a hacksaw to cut a slot through the outer shell. Take the saw apart, thread the blade through the inside of the sleeve and put it back together. Then cut a slot on top and bottom, and then remove the two halves of the old sleeve.
Install the new sleeve. - Buy the new bushings. To install you cut a notch in a piece of wood that will fit around and inside of the arm and support it, IF it's a stamped metal unit. If it's welded then just support the area the bushing goes into. Now get a chunk of all thread rod that JUST fits through the center hole of the new bushing. You also need two lock nuts and some steel plates as large as the bushing shell. You basically make a screw press to pull the new bushing into place.
OR you visit the local parts store that rents tools and grab the control arm bushing set they will have, failing that you could buy the set harbor freight has for 40 bucks. It will do control arm bushings, U-Joints and king pins. Plus it could be adapted to other things as well.
It doesn't hurt to stick the new bushings in the freezer for a couple days prior to install either. The minute amount of shrinkage does help.
rec.autos.makers.honda and the numerous web forums are probably the best places to get the info you need.
Mike Romain wrote in news:4936ae87$0$4956$ snipped-for-privacy@unlimited.newshosting.com:
I always use a zip gun with the muffler cutter bit to cut a slice out. KB
I would worry about that in a rust bucket. I would think it may cut the wrong piece.... Those collars are stronger than the sheet steel they are pressed into, especially old rusty sheet steel... I would even worry about using that tool in the ebay link for fear of crushing the frame and leaving the collar in place.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote in news:49382373$0$26140$ snipped-for-privacy@unlimited.newshosting.com:
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because of the curved pointed bit it slides along the arm inner while sliceing a small slice out of the bushing sleve, never had a problem yet. and often will catch the sleve and push it out before the cut is done. KB
Brent wrote in news:gh6meb$6hu$ snipped-for-privacy@news.motzarella.org:
The guys here have pretty much covered it, from what I can see. Bushing replacement on a Honda isn't much different from any other car.
When I did mine, I disassembled the suspension and brought the arms to a garage, so they could press the old bushings out and the new (OEM) ones in. I was charged $30 for the fronts and something more than that for the rears. To me the added expense was worth it, as it made the whole job a LOT easier and a LOT quicker.
I did the rear suspension before I had my electric impact wrench, so I couldn't get many of the bushing bolts undone. I left it to the garage to take the rear assembly apart, which greatly added to the cost (there were complications on account of rust). By the time it came to the front, I had an impact wrench. Every bolt buzzed out in seconds.
DeWalt DW-293 electric impact wrench. Accept no substitutes (unless you have a compressor).
I got it out without too much effort, and without damaging the arm. I just cut a slice into the sleeve with a reciprocating saw, not quite all the way through the sleeve, then used a chisel and hammer to curl the sleeve inward and slide it out. Installing the replacements will probably be harder....
I wish I could afford to take this to a garage, but finances are simply too tight. Also, the car is now sitting on cinder blocks in the backyard and the rear suspension and fuel system have been completely removed for servicing (the fuel lines were rusted through as well)- so this thing isn't going anywhere.
"Chris F." wrote in news:493aa0f4$0$5475$ snipped-for-privacy@news.aliant.net:
In that case you've got lots of time to remove the arms and do the torch/hacksaw thing to get them out, and use Steve W's method to install the new ones.
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