Some say the greasable ones are weaker and can be snapped or busted by high power engine applications. True? Or is that someone's ego talking?
Are the sealed non-greased ones solid or do they have a cavity too?
It's true but you can minimize the chances by making sure that the place where the zerk exits the trunnion is in compression. i.e., the correct installed position.
Every non greasable u-joint I've ever seen is hollow to some degree.
Pure ego! LOL!
The non grease ones still have a cavity in each ear to hold some amount of grease in them. They usually aren't cross drilled so the center is 'usually' solid.
Having said that, I have never seen a u-joint of either type break at the cross unless it was hit on something, they all break at the ends.
I off road and thought those 'lifetime' warranty expensive 'Heavy Duty' u-joints would be the best so I replaced all mine with them when I rebuilt my CJ7 in 2000.
Man was I ever wrong!
I still have one of those pricks left in my Jeep and will be likely changing it out this afternoon if we get time because it is blown. It's the last one to blow and it is on the driveshaft that only turns when I am in 4x4.
My front axles ones didn't last 8 months, rear driveshaft lasted a little longer. I had to open the diffs so pulled the front axles and after only 8 months the grease inside the HD u-joints was already that sick milkshake consistency from water contamination.
For my type of driving, I need to be able to pump the water out of the u-joints after every off road run. I do get water out every time too...
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT'sI had a "greasable" u joint installed in my Caprice. But it appears that it is greasable only if it is NOT on the driveshaft. I cannot get to the grease nipple with the grease gun !!
Then one rear wheel needs to be lifted off the ground and turned so the driveshaft rotates. When the grease zerk gets to the top, there is room for the gun. If not, then the u-joint was put in backwards and needs to be flipped so the zerk is on the other side.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT'sLecher9000 wrote:
||Then one rear wheel needs to be lifted off the ground and turned so the ||driveshaft rotates. When the grease zerk gets to the top, there is room ||for the gun. If not, then the u-joint was put in backwards and needs to ||be flipped so the zerk is on the other side. || ||Mike ||86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 ||88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's || ||Lecher9000 wrote: ||> ||> I had a "greasable" u joint installed in my Caprice. But it appears that it is ||> greasable only if it is NOT on the driveshaft. I cannot get to the grease ||> nipple with the grease gun !!
Rex in Fort Worth
Thanks for the u-joint lubing ideas. May try the "fat needle" approach next. Easier than flipping the u-joint. :)
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