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rear window defogger replacement switch melts plastic covers

Hi, the rear window defogger switch of my car is defective. The parts office asks for $45 for a new part, and I cannot find any other office in my country. Therefore I decided to use a common switch. To this end, I had to find which 2 connectors to connect, because the original switch was connected to 4. I disasembled the original switch and I noticed that it looked like a common on-off switch connecting just 2 of the connectors. I came to the conclusion that the other 2 where not used. Maybe they where there for a different version of the switch? Because the connectors where hidden in a plastic enclosure, I extended them using one 5 inch cable for each. Then I connected a usual on-off switch (13Ampere, 240 Volt) to these extensions. Now when the switch is on for about 1-2 minutes, the defogger works, but the plastic enclosure melts because a lot of heat is eminated from the original connectors and from their extensions. I do not think the resistance of the extension cables is high because they are thick copper wires I took out of a laundry machine computer! Any one knows what am I doing wrong? Any suggestion how to make the switch work?

Reply to
interuser
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Current on my Demister(Defogger) is 28A. 13A is waaaayyyy to low, hence its getting hot, as the contact resistance is too high.

Reply to
Paul Landregan

Not to mention that his 13 amp, 240 volt rating is for an AC circuit which makes it good for about 2 amps DC.

Reply to
Neil Nelson

interuser: In the long run..... save money and time... and install the proper and safe exact factory replacement part..... not to mention that your experimenting with improper parts could easily cause personal injury, fires, etc. Be very certain to get all the wires back on the correct terminals of the new "exact" replacement switch.

Reply to
sofie

snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com ( snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com:

Whenever I have to replace anything on any of my cars - I visit the local junk yards. I have yet to buy any new parts. For something like that they'd probably ask for like $5. And then you wouldn't have to worry about anything catching fire :)

Michael

Reply to
Michael

Amen to that, but junkyard today prefer to be called "Used Parts Dealers"!

Harry C.

Reply to
Harry Conover

Howdy!

"Automotive Parts Recycling Facility"

Yes, actually, there IS a wrecking yard / junk yard / used part dealer in my town that goes by that name ...

My nephew (who owns an auto salvage yard - still ANOTHER phrase for the same thing!) says that's because he specializes in Lexus, Acura, Cadillac, BMW, etc ...

RwP

Reply to
Ralph Wade Phillips

Ever noticed that some parts, like hood hinges for instance, are nearly always cheaper, brand new, than at a salvage yard? So much labor removing, I am sure. BTW:When I was a kid, I junked a 48 Chevy (that I bought for $65 with a 52 engine) when I sold the engine to a beach-goer whose engine locked up near our country store. Kept a notebook and recorded each $1 items I sold, 50cents, $15, etc. In about 1.5 years I had sold something like $250 of stuff, including the eng. Man, what a business to be in! Or should I say PROFESSION? sdlomi

Reply to
sdlomi

Depends on the yard really, I only go to the U-pull ones, locally good engines are $140, trannies are $55, hood hinges are something like $10, granted the newest cars they have are '90 or so.

Reply to
James Sweet

Sounds as if you find those "oldies but goodies" yards. When I had time, I could browse for hours, finding things that suggested projects just by catching my attention. I'd probably still enjoy plundering thru them--good days I prolly will never again enjoy. Lucky you!!! Envious of your find and ability to utilize, sdlomi. Happy New Year!

Reply to
sdlomi

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