red antifreeze

I just had to add some red antifreeze to our Avalon cannister. Local Autozone had several compatible materials, and I believe I chose Prestone. It was certified on the jugs to be compatible will all other red formulations.

I don't know what's best, but don't go by color alone because there aren't any industry standards to match color ant type, and the color is added with dye (except for that light clear yellow antifreeze). For example, I've been told that Toyota's red stuff more resembles regular green antifreeze than GM's red stuff. Also if you mix different types, the protection won't be as good, and there's a good chance the new antifreeze will dissolve deposits (even if you first run a strong cleaning chemical, but that introduces the risk of bringing out leaks -- no fun if they're around the water pump shaft and the pump is driven by the timing belt) and resemble a chocolate milkshake in a month or two.

Here's an article about the different types of antifreeze:

The major makers of antifreeze seem to have good information -- Prestone, Peak, and Valvoline, but clerks at discount auto parts store usually don't.

Don't fall for the 50/50 prediluted scam where you pay almost twice as much per unit of pure antifreeze. It's usually cheaper to buy 100% strength antifreeze and spend $1 a gallon for distilled or purified water.

micky wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

What make of vehicle is this? Zaporozhets? Hindustan? Geely? Toyota?

What year is it?

A 2000 Toyota.

Wow. The only reason I asked is that I'm obsessive compulsive about changing colors. I had almost no idea the colors meant anything, and if I didn't think mixing red and green would look ugly, I was just going to buy whatever I found, like I usually do.

It's a good thing I asked.

Thanks everyone.

BTW, it's a 2000 Toyota.

In the FAQ it says "Both propylene glycol and ethylene glycol have similar biodegradability and will eventually break down into nontoxic byproducts. Neither should be dumped in the environment. Antifreeze picks up heavy metals such as lead during use in the engine.

==> Where does it get lead from?

Therefore, both ethylene glycol and propylene glycol antifreezes should be returned to a recycling center to minimize harmful effects on our environment after use. Spills should be cleaned up immediately."

It's a 2000 Toyota, but I bought it at a Ford dealership, so even though the antifreeze is red, I don't know if it is Toyota red or somerthing else.. :(

micky wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Genuine Toyota antifreeze is a clear, dark ruby-red (excepting the new pink stuff, of course). If you see clear ruby-red in your rad, then that's likely OE antifreeze.

For your car, it is better than the green stuff.

Prove it!

"hls" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

Prove it isn't!

Now, c'mon, Tegger...you made the claim, not me.

"hls" wrote in news:Ft- snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

Perfectly true. And here on Usenet, I can't prove or disprove anything any more than you can.

But I can use logical deduction.

Toyota red was specifically designed/formulated/chosen/whatever to be as compatible as possible with the materials and conditions found inside a Toyota engine. Toyota engineers collaborated with the coolant supplier to ensure the fluid would meet Toyota's requirements as closely as possible.

The green stuff (or any aftermarket fluid) is a one-size-fits-all compromise that Toyota engineers did not specify or approve. It may be very close to what Toyota specifies for its own fluids, or it may not. You and I have no way of knowing either way.

It makes little sense to pay Toyota however many tens of thousands of dollars for a vehicle they designed, then second-guess everything they did when designing the vehicle, for the sake of a $10 saving in coolant.

With all due respect, you are repeating what you believe to be true, not what you know for sure to be true. I agree that, if you have a Toyota and want to follow the defensible protocols, you follow their recommendations.

But that really doesnt prove anything.

I dont use Fram filters, for the same reason, but I have no proof that they are as bad as people claim, nor as good as Fram claims.

"hls" wrote in news:0MqdnQCru snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

I never said it did. In fact, I stated the opposite. Quote: "...I can't prove or disprove anything any more than you can."

I DID say I could use "logical deduction", and I did.

Let's not escalate this, Teg, but how did logical deduction lead you to claim : "For your car, it is better than the green stuff."

why do you think you have an opinion on something you clearly don't understand? that is a serious question - i genuinely find this concept intriguing.

to spell out the coolant "logic" though, toyota coolant is "known good" for toyota vehicles. unless you have access to the chemical data for both toyota coolant and other coolants, you have no idea whether anything else meets standards - they're just in the "hoped good" category with a $[insert price of engine] testing fee attached.

that is no basis on which to make a car tech decision. automotive fluids are usually colored to aid in differentiation and leak diagnosis. just go with it.

there's lead in the solder of copper/brass radiators. and there's lead in the "free machining steel" used for things like pump shafts. there can even be small amounts of lead in the castings of old iron blocks [though hopefully not much - bad for quality]. it's much less of an issue these days, but very much present in older vehicles.

imo, the more immediate issue with old antifreeze is having that stuff about where animals and pets can access it. it's sweet to taste, so a small puddle on your driveway will be eagerly lapped up. bigger animals can tolerate a little. but smaller ones like cats, they go buh-bye.

"hls" wrote in news:gvWdnV3eeOH snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

You never actually read my post from Friday, did you? It's all there.

Of course, I read your post. And I understand what you are trying to say. And I will leave it at that