for the connecting rod bearings, are the sizes [a, b, c, etc] marked anywhere on the motor other than the caps themselves? is it possible to get this info without dropping the oil pan? i want to order ahead of time if possible.
this is for my 88 efi 2wd pickup, i'm still having problems with the overdrive not engaging. the transmission works - if you rig a separate switch, the solenoid engages ok and the overdrive engages. this appears to be a temp thing. the ecu doesn't seem to think the engine is warm enough because it's not energizing the solenoid. the thermostat is new and works. there is no thermoswitch on the 2wd version i've been able to determine from comparison with other vehicles. other than the main temp sensor being defective, or even the ecu being defective, is there something i'm missing?
Caps may not even tell you. Toys can be interesting sometimes. One of the ones I had in took different upper and lower shells on the same journal! Talked to a gent who had a LOT of time on them and he said that the factory system was to grind and polish THEN figure out what size bearing you needed. Unlike most others who grind and polish them all to the same size.
The TPS also tells the ECM when you are at steady state and correct throttle opening for the converter to lock up. If it reads high or low it could be telling the ECM wrong info.
Is your's in the vintage where they still had the control cable up to the throttle? That could be out of whack if it has one.
interesting. i was wondering about engine temperature since i've seen reference to that in some of the toyota forums. however, they also refer to the thermoswitch that mine doesn't have, so i was wondering if the main temp sensor was drifting. [if i was designing the ecu, i'd only bother with the one temp sensor since all the functions can be handled in software. but of course, any malfunction and everything is shot after that.]
interesting again - yes it has one. i'll look at it. do you know how it's supposed to be adjusted? any set degree of slack required?
Pull the air cleaner off. Check and make sure the throttle opens all the way when you push the pedal. Push the rubber boot off the cable on the TB end. Loosen the nuts that hold the cable in place in the bracket. Hold the throttle wide open. Adjust the housing so you have 0-1MM between the cable stop and the end of the cable. Tighten it down, double check it and put the air cleaner back on.
Does yours have the switch on the dash that allows you to turn the OD on/off? Some did some didn't. It's possible that the switch is failing.
Yours should be the A43D trans I believe. This might help (it's a service manual for the A43D)
The Russians used to do this;i.e., match bearings and crankshaft to a particular engine block. Works fine until you run into trouble, but when something goes bust, you have to custom order a custom crank and bearing...
I saw a documentary on Ferrari engines the other night. The degree of match on their shafts and bearings seemed phenomenal. Touch the crankshaft and it spins like a "dreidel". To get that out of an American turd, you have to spend a good bit of time matching, machining, and balancing.
yes, it's got one on the end of the selector stalk. i know that works because it turns on a "overdrive off" light on the dash, and it also in turn operates the overdrive relay. i tested the relay and that works too.
perfect - thank you! will let you know how it goes.
Ferrari builds a nice engine BUT you had better NEVER neglect oil changes, using the EXACT OIL they require and expect to pay through the nose for the "privilege" of owning a prancing pony.
The domestics on the other hand get built to last 100K with MUCH less engine care. BUT you can grab parts from just about anywhere and make it run.
the chances of you getting spin to the touch like that on a journal bearing are slim to zero - sorry. at rest, you have direct metal-to-metal sliding contact, and that always has startup friction. your best bet to get "spin" like that is a rolling element bearings, but ferrari don't use those afaik.
i probed end to end on the solenoid circuit. the solenoid is being activated on command from the switch, via the relay, etc. so, either there's something else telling the transmission not to engage overdrive, and this transmission is electronically controlled, or the transmission has a mechanical problem. i'm pretty sure it's not the overdrive clutch
- that worked fine without slippage before.
is there a separate transmission control computer on these things? i know where the engine control computer is.
great linkage. it seems you can pull the transmission valve body without having to remove the rest of the transmission, so if it comes to that kind of surgery, that's one small saving feature.
Well it was a long shot. But an easier one than others.
No separate unit. Control is through the ECM.
I'm thinking it is a mechanical problem. Could be something simple like a stuck ball or even a chunk of crap in a passage. When was the last fluid/filter change? Was it a flush?
ok. i'll have to poke about and see what the main shifting solenoids do.
fluid/filter change last weekend. dropped the pan to fix an oil leak [TYPICAL f-ing silicone "gasket" failure]. made no difference. didn't flush.
there was some crud on the magnets, but other than that, it was pretty clean. but as you say, especially with that silicone floating about, a blocked passage wouldn't be any surprise.
any experience with these kits?
i figure that if i can drop the valve body without transmission removal, it's got to be worth a shot.
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.