Who was it who mentioned Fram oil filters and dropping oil pressure? (2025 Update)

The Caravan is positioned so if you have the pan placed properly, it catches the oil from the pan and the filter all at once.

The Soob...it leaks out a little, but manages to hold most of the oil in place.

The Supra? If the filter does happen to be full, you're going to get oil down the side of the block and onto the subframe...

Still a meathead, I see. Good to know some things never change. Not really. It's just an old cliche.

It would be nice if, once in a while, you chimed in on a discussion where you actually added some value, instead of trying to make yourself look like the only person in the world who knows anything, and everyone else is just an idiot.

And I remember full well what my original post was concerning. I threw in the 3,000 miles to indicate when the next oil change might be, and also mentioned I was changing the oil in the Soob soon. But being myopic as you are, you focused on one thing and ran with it.

Why don't you go haunt a castle in Scotland or something?

For all you actually manage to add to a discussion, it would amount to about the same.

I'm not going to start this bullshit with you again like in the Honda group, or the last oil change discussion. Add something or just STFU. please.

FRAG! I knew what I was thinking, but typed the exact opposite.

Base UP (as in a SBC and most other old school V-8s with an integral filter mount) is "normal." Base DOWN (e.g. slant-six, Porsche 944, old Ferrari V-12, etc.) *requires* an ADBV, either as part of the filter or part of the base.

nate

Mine is not. It still runs as well today as it did in 2002 when I installed it. Which is like new I might add. No runs, no drips, no errors.. Except for when I tried to use a Fram filter and it clacked very loudly in protest. I didn't let it run long enough to hurt anything, and I never raised it off idle until I finally had pressure.

ating oil pressure,

I can round you up a whole boatload of people that have seen the same exact problem. This is a well known issue involving many people. It's not something I just made up to look stylish. I don't care what the "studies" say. They are not using them in the same applications and filter positions.

There have already been two others just in this thread alone that seem to be well aware of the problem besides me. Trust me, compared to the anti drain valve on the Motorcraft filter, the ones in regular orange Fram filters suck. Period. And I've proven to myself on my own vehicle. I've never seen the problem with any other filter on that engine. Only the Fram. Many others have proven it to themselves also. It's a common topic on the Ford truck forums I hang out on. But it's also a known problem with the Mopar slant six 229's. As far as the "dropping oil pressure", I'd say starting an engine when cold and waiting extended periods of time for *any* oil pressure would qualify. It's not anything one would normally miss being as the engine will be clacking like crazy. :( Think what you want, but you will never see me using a Fram filter again, even if they do work acceptably in many other applications. Which I'm sure they probably do.. They don't work in all of them though, and the other brands do. I know which line I'll be in and it won't be the one with the big "F" up at the window. :/

They were junk when they were Allied Signal, and when they were their own company before that. Who the "banker" is doesn't improve quality.

way, WAY back in the day, they were apparently pretty good. And from what I've heard the media in their air filters is decent, it's just the

nate

Go away, you irritating man. Isn't there the underside of a rock just about your size?

LOL! But, adding to another part of this thread, whatever happened to Lee? I used them in all my Toyotas until ~1986 and had no problems at all with them!

I remember the Frantz oil filter ads that used to be in magazines such as Popular Mechanics and Popular Science.I still have some of those old magazines here.There was another type of an oil filter thingy which used a roll of toilet paper for filtering the oil. cuhulin

Their quality "went south" in the late '60s or early '70s in a big way. That said, they were NEVER as good as a Wix or a Hastings / Casite even back then.

Yes, the FL1A is the same application as the Fram PH8A - fit Ford, Mopar, Toyota, and many other apps.

Someone volunteer to to put two accurate oil pressure gauges on something, say a 98 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder. One before the filter, one after. The pressure differential will indicated the amount of pressure drop when the filter is new, if the relief is working when cold, and the amount of resistance as the filter clogs up and if the filter media ruptures. Also need a couple of accurate flow meter to determine volume of oil in the different flow circuits and of course a temp gauge at the entrance to the oil filter, and a recording chart or maybe a software program and laptop to record all the numbers....... then come up with the specs on what a filter should do for how long and keep the cost under 4 dollars retail. PRESTO ! You have reinvented the wheel! Or you could do like I used to do with my old 73 Chev Nova SS 6 cylinder, carry a spare filter, the oil pressure sender on that one was after the filter, when the pressure dropped with a warm engine I changed the filter. Whatever, I use Fram, they meet factory specs and do the job for my kind of driving. If you are really worried about engine life, drive easy until the engine is warmed up, then keep driving easy and you should get all the designed life from the engine and probably quite a bit more. The national debt on Nov 20, 2009 was

My wag (wild ass guess) is that the prior owner had motor honey in it to prop up the pressure, and if I'm right all the filter changes wont help. I sure hope I'm wrong as a lower end is a bit more $ than a filter. Ben

Right. but no one here is going to do a meaningful experiment. What they will rely on is the partial evidence available ( the gauge on the dash board ).

If the engine is in good shape the fact that one filter offers slightly more resistance than another shouldn't make any noticeable difference on the dash oil pressure gauge. The pressure relief valve controls the pressure. It's only when the engine and/or oil pump is badly worn that you are going to see the effects of different filter media on the oil pressure gauge ( if the vehicle has a gauge )

-jim

"...15 years ago" - that's the problem with this whole thread. Everybody is arguing antique anecdotal evidence and apparently no one has any actual facts to contribute. For all we know from this discussion, they had one bad production run in 1994 and everybody is still talking about it.

Try this experiment - the next time you change the oil filter, up end the old one and see how long it take to drain out. I'll bet you find no difference from one brand to another, I know I haven't. Nobody's ADBVs work worth a damn.

The real issue is whether the filter media meets mfr's specs & that element seems to never enter into the discussion.

OK. I almost asked which side of the filter you called base. FYI unless you have a leak in the plumbing or oil pump, there should always be a syphon back to the pan even if the filter has the inlet facing up. If there is no check valve that keeps the oil from draining back to the pan it will syphon back.

My personal experience is that I know for a fact that large fleets of b-100 dodge vans with slant sixes were using Fram filters back in the

I recall there was an issue with the slant six oil filters. Sometime back in the 60's or early 70's they changed the size of the filter on some slant sixes to a shorty version (IIRC trucks had an extra heavy duty version). The problem was some people used the old long filters thinking that would give them better protection. What happened when the long filter was used in this application was the filter would have an air pocket trapped in the top of the filter. That air bubble would be compressed when the engine was running and the filter behaved more or less normally while the engine ran. But when the engine was turned off the compressed air bubble would expand and push the oil out into the engine. That meant when you re-started the engine it need to push that quart or so of oil back into the filter before the engine would get any oil pressure. An incorrect interpretation of what was happening under those circumstances may be how this superstitious belief about Fram filters and slant sixes got started.

-jim

No nothing was said about every one else. I was very specific.

You responded to what I wrote with a completely idiotic statement. Now you are saying it wouldn't have sounded quite as dumb if I had read everything else you ever wrote on Usenet. That makes you not just an idiot but a self absorbed idiot.

And you wonder why you are called an idiot.

Well excuse me for not being sufficiently scatter-brained for your taste.

What an idiot. What discussion in the Honda group?

Which has nothing to do with what I said and also ignores everything said in the post I was responding to. Your just contributing more irrelevant nonsense. If the engine is in good shape the fact that one filter offers slightly more flow resistance than another shouldn't make any noticeable difference on the dash board oil pressure gauge. The pressure relief valve controls the level seen at the gauge when the engine is in good shape.

As long as you are sharing irrelevant info, care to share what brand and how much coffee you drank this morning?

Yes you mentioned that along with dozens of other pieces of worthless information. And heaven forbid that everyone isn't paying very close attention to all the dribble.

Just for kicks, here's a look at filters one guy did.

--Vic