An update to my prior post regarding my problems with both my headlights going out at the same time:
I tried to change the headlights, didn't work, I've checked the fuses, they work fine.
I'm really new at this stuff so if someone can help me out with some more directed advice that would be great.... where can I find a wiring diagram? What is the best way to proceed once I do (I'm guessing start at the lights and work my way back..?
Also, i noted there is a bunch of goup on the light connecters.. what should I use to clean this off?
"Going out" --- means they don't come on any more? Both high and low beams? Did you replace or move around the relays yet (small black plastic plugin modules under the hood on the fuse panel)? One is probably bad. Can you hear the relays click when you cycle the switch on/off? Haynes or Clymers have wiring diagrams that are a good start for $15 (or try library for them).
They do not come on at all anymore - low beams, high beams, daytime running lights. I looked at the module but not sure how to tell if it is still good? How can I tell? Just try a new one? It looks like a bunch of things including the horn may run through it (whcih stil works)
as you can probably tell i am not an expert by any stetch of the imagination - but am willing to learn.
I believe that there are separate relays for the left and right sides. I'd suspect that the stalk-switch is bad, and it would be worth it to have it professionally checked.
I took my car into the dealership to get it looked at - they say it's the headlight assembly switch. They are going to charge me $260 to fix it. What is the next best step - if I go to an auto wreckers would I be able to get a used part and maybe be able to take it to another shop somewhere? I'm sure I dont have the skills to do this myself but also dont feel like spending that much!
I thought that the headlight combination switch was the cause. I'm pretty sure that the dealership will charge you a fee to diagnose the problem, which they probably would waive if you authorized them to complete the repair. If you take the car elsewhere, you will have to pay them the diagnostic fee and the repair fee to another shop. Any competent shop will also charge a diagnostic fee before they proceed with the repair so you have to figure out which course of action would cost you the least overall.
I believe that replacing the combination switch involves de-activating the air bag and removing the steering wheel, something I would not recommend that a novice attempt because air bags are very expensive to replace.
You may or may not be able to get the part at an auto wrecker - you'll have to call around to find out, or perhaps the dealership or independent shop can check for you. Some drawbacks to using a part from an auto wrecker is that there may not be any guarantee that the used part will work - it may eventually develop the same problem you're trying to cure and you will be back to where you started.
The course of action that is most likely to result in a satisfactory long lasting repair is to let the dealership complete the repair, which is what I would do if I were in your shoes.
And another important thing to consider is that the dealer service department might charge you $25 or $50 more than an independent shop using new parts, but they also will stand behind the repair actually working for the long term.
With the independents, if it breaks again, and they don't know you from Adam and think they can soak you again, they may try. "Nope, totally different problem, it's the muffler bearings this time."
another update - finally got it fixed... the switch was broken, and there were two wires fused together... took them 6 or 7 hours worth of labour to do it.. thankfully the dealership only charged me for 3 hours!
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