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2007 Corolla "drive shaft bolt"

Two days ago I couldn't spell Toyoda, now I own one! Just purchased a

2007 Corolla CE yesterday. So far I am pleased except for the huge key which need a belt scabbard. As to the question of my post...

The maintenance schedule states "Re-torque drive shaft bolt (Corolla and Corolla Matrix)". Note that it says "bolt" singular. This peaked my curiosity and I had the salesman take me to the service department to find out what the mystery bolt was and what the torque spec was. They had no clue. One service technician speculated that it referred to the nuts on the end of the drive shafts (plural) but that the ones currently used, in place of the older castellated nuts, were crimped and not adjustable once installed.

I called the Toyoda "Customer Experience Center" and asked what the story was. The fellow did some research and said there was 1, and only 1, "hub nut" which was what needed to be torqued.

Is anyone here familiar with this item? I have the link to the service documents site and will probably buy a one day membership and suck down the service manuals. Just haven't done that yet.

TIA,

Ken

Reply to
Ken
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I think that they are talking about the outside hub nut, when you take the wheel cover off you will see it in the center of the assembly. You can find the torque spec and check it at the specified interval. They usually don't come loose inadvertently.

Reply to
user

That sounds reasonable and is what the service technician thought. However, the hub nut is supposed to be non-adjustable according to the tech. I have not yet pulled things apart to look. Guess I will haev to do so.

Ken

Reply to
Ken

Yep, I'd agree with that. They are listed at 178 Nm and have a split pin and a castellated nut to prevent them from going anywhere!

Hammo

Reply to
Hammo

They usually don't put something like that into print unless there has been a problem before. And on a safety critical item that would make the wheel fall off, once is enough. ;-)

All bolts that are highly stressed have a tendency to work loose in the first few weeks or months of a product's life, or there can be a slight burr between the mating surfaces (I'll bet that joint is tapered splines) that can fool the factory torque setting and would be worked down over time. Which is why they would call for a retorque after putting on some road miles to work out those burrs.

(You are supposed to retorque a lot of things on your car a few weeks after doing work, like retorque the wheel lug nuts every time you change a tire, but few people bother to. And if the initial torque was set right, it's rarely a problem - BUT, it can be...)

After the initial retorque to take any slack out, then no further maintenance would be called for unless you take it apart again.

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

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