I have tried, but damm if I can't get this sucker running-
A few weeks ago, it just would not start. It turns over but no spark- I changed in order, Ignitor (thing in distributor 4 wires about a $115), coil (in distributor), swapped a aluminum housing module under drivers seat with one from my 86 van- nothing, isnpected all obvious things, wire, cap, rotor...
This 85 does not seem to have a computer module, like my 86...it is mounted under drivers seat, costs around 400 bucks-
If anyone has had any experience to share or tips to get this puppy running, I would be so pleased- I am not a mechanic, but I can follow directions
Okay, your first task is to STOP Throwing Money At The Problem Until You Figure Out What The Problem Really *IS*!!! ;-)
If you haven't found out yet, there are no returns on installed electrical or electronic components - and if they do, you /really/ need to stop shopping at that parts store, and tell them why.
It's too easy to blow up the new module and think that didn't solve the problem, so you take it back and return it as "good". (And that's not mentioning the cheap bastards that deliberately clean up and return the bad part in the box to get the new one "for free"...)
The store that accepts returns when they shouldn't has no way to test the part, so they just put the box back on the shelf - and the next guy gets driven bonkers when he spends two hours installing the "brand new" part and it doesn't work...
(This is why I NEVER buy an 'open-box' item at Fry's Electronics unless it's "Fourth-and-Goal" desperation time - but at least they have the decency to clearly tag the returned & restocked items.)
You need spark, fuel, air and compression to make an engine go. You've already determined you have no spark, now you have to determine WHY you have no spark. Do you have 12V pulses getting to the coil primary? Do you have continuous 12V getting to the ignitor and the ignition module?
You could have a bad ignition switch or a popped fuse, and changing the ignitor and module would be pointless if the power never gets there in the first place...
Another thing to consider: It could also be a skipped or broken timing issue - is the distributor turning? Does it crank smoothly or does the cranking speed vary up and down a lot, like the valves aren't opening at the right times?...
The first money you are going to spend after reading this is on a repair manual for the car - roughly $20 for Haynes or Chilton at your local parts store, up to $250 for the Toyota FSM that will fill up your bookshelf. It's a lot more, but if you are keeping the car for a while the Toyota book will pay for itself.
And the second thing is a decent digital volt-ohmmeter - anything over roughly $30 will be halfway accurate, if you hit the $100 mark it will be 'ruggedized', and have internal fuses to protect it against operator "Oopsies" like when you try checking for Volts with the probes in the "Amps" position.
(Do that on a cheapie - and you will, everyone does at least once - and you just slagged the whole thing. Toss it and get another.)
Preferably an "automotive" model with tach-dwell and other handy functions.
Do NOT use an old-fashioned test light probe around any computerized circuits under the hood. They can load the circuit down and give misleading readings, or damage the computer. They're good for checking fuses and light circuits, and that's about it.
Follow the "No Spark" troubleshooting tree in the book, and report back with the results. Then we'll have something to work with.
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