Driver's side power window problem

So tonight I tried rolling my windows up on my 92 Camry. My passenger side window rolled up but my driver's side did not (and to top it all
off it was raining :( )
The back two windows worked fine also. I tried to roll my window down and it did roll down but not up. When I try to roll it up it *sounds* like its rolling up but does not go. I then pressed the button again and it sounded like it was rolling down, but obviously wasn't.
Is this going to cost me a lot of $$$$?
In all honesty, I just want the window to go up! I don't care if I won't be able to roll it down again!
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If you can hear the motor working, then the window regulator, which kind of looks like a scissors, is probably binding. If all you want to do is to get the window in the up position, a competent technician should be able to get it raised for about an hour's labor.
--

Ray O
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Is you driver window fully open that you cant grasp the glass and pull it up while pressing the up switch?
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On Thu, 26 Jul 2007 16:46:04 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

BTDT on our '93. Download a manual here http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry
If the motor/regulator assembly is bad, as I suspect it is, Ebay is much cheaper than the dealer for parts.
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On Thu, 26 Jul 2007 16:46:04 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Can you get the window up if you physically pull the glass up while someone pushes the "Up" switch at the same time?
If the glass is sticking in the rubber window channels ("fuzzies") they can be lubricated with a VERY sparing squirt of spray silicone lubricant. You can squirt the silicone lubricant on a Q-tip and swab the channel with the wet tip to get it exactly where needed.
If it is the regulator mechanism inside the door (below the glass) that is sticking, you can take the inner door liner off and lubricate it - the best stuff is probably white lithium "Lubriplate" grease on the pivot and slide points.
WARNING: If the silicone lubricant compound gets on any surface that will be painted (months, even years later) when you try painting it will cause fish-eyes in the paint film. (The paint beads up and won't stick.)
The silicone residue can be removed before painting IF the painters know it's there (because you warn them you have lubed the windows). Otherwise they'll find out when the fish-eyes appear, and will have to strip and repaint the entire area. And they'll be ready to kill the first person they see holding a spray can of the dreaded compound.
Body Shop workers own big hammers and get lots of practice swinging them - NOT wise to piss them off... ;-)
--<< Bruce >>--
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On Jul 29, 12:34 am, Bruce L. Bergman

Hey everyone, I guess i'm not alone with window problems.
When I first bought my 1991 toyata camry wagon from my aunt all systems were go. After about 6 weeks I put the assistant power window down and it would not come up. This happens when using both the master switch and the assistant switch. I was able to get the window up using a spare battery and connecting wires tothe window motor, which works in both directions. I also know that the switches are not the problem, as I purchased a second identical car for parts in which all windows worked properly and swaped switches.
I am checking some of the wiring as I assume that is where the problem is.
Can anyone guide my efforts or have a solution.
Thanks,
Rob
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wrote:

If the motor works when applying power directly to the motor, and the known good switches do not solve the problem, then the wiring is suspect. Check where the wire passes from the door to the car's body first.
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Ray O
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