My cigarette lighter / plug is not working, any help??

If you have a volt meter or test light, check to see if there is power coming to the socket with the ignition switch in the accessory or on position.

The socket has a fusible link in back. You can replace the socket yourself by unplugging the wire in back, unscrewing the retaining ring in back of the socket, pulling out the bad socket and installing a good one.

I wonder if Ray's suggestion that the ignition key be ON, when you try to test the socket isn't the answer to this problem.......as I recall, it has to be on to activate the lighter. If it's $140 for the dealer to replace it, that's one helluva precious cigar lighter! The OP doesn't state how old his car is, but it might be under warranty still.

First guess would be a fuse blown. Download a manual here

to reference fuse block locationsand circuit diagrams.

The lighter socket is switched with the Accessory position on the ignition key.

At the dealer, $140 isn't too steep figuring on a totally new socket and a new element, and the labor to change it out. Remember, they don't want to see any go-backs or it looks bad on their Customer Satisfaction Surveys, so they're going to sell you a new lighter pop-out element and the trim knob too, even if you don't need them.

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Thanks Ray O, will try it out.

toyo999

I took the stock cigarette socket out and put one in from Canadian tire. When I first put it in, my fuse blew twice (20A). Then I put a

30A fuse in and the radio started working again, however whenever I would plug in the charger, the radio would shut off and the charger would get really hot.

Am I doing something wrong? The right wires are hooked up to the wires on the stock cigarette lighter. The cigarette socket does have power but it seems like it has too much and if I dont unplug the car charge quick, it will most likely fry the charger.

Any suggestions??

(95 Corolla DX 1.6L)

Thanks for the replies.

toyo999

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote: > On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 11:05:19 -0700, "mack" > > wrote: > > >I wonder if Ray's suggestion that the ignition key be ON, > when you try to > >test the socket isn't the answer to this problem... As I > recall, it has > >to be on to activate the lighter. > > The lighter socket is switched with the Accessory position > on the > ignition key. > > > If it's $140 for the dealer to replace > >it, that's one helluva precious cigar lighter! The OP > doesn't state how > >old his car is, but it might be under warranty still. > > At the dealer, $140 isn't too steep figuring on a totally > new socket > and a new element, and the labor to change it out. Remember, > they > don't want to see any go-backs or it looks bad on their > Customer > Satisfaction Surveys, so they're going to sell you a new > lighter > pop-out element and the trim knob too, even if you don't need > them. > > -->--

"Car charge"? What the Sam Hill are you plugging into the lighter? And if the fuse box calls for a 20A fuse you NEVER go any larger. That fuse is there to protect the car wiring harness.

The lighter socket is only for SMALL loads - the lighter draws about

10 amps for 15 - 30 seconds and that's the MOST you should be drawing through there, or you'll just pop the thermal protector on the new socket.

If you want to draw more than about 5 amps continuous (or send, if this is one of those lighter-to-lighter jumper cables), you need to install an "accessory power socket", cabled straight to the battery with an inline fuse at the battery sized to protect the wires.

Throw out the "charge cable", you're only going to blow something up. A set of real jumper cables is $20 tops. The main wiring harness on your car is a minimum of $2500 to replace if you burn it up playing with the lighter socket - you do the math.

Oh, and your insurance will not cover it - "No flame, No claim." Cheaper to total it, and you get to buy a new one all on your own.

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