Proper steps to change an oil pan?

The oil is not pressurized at that location, and I have always used a gasket. I would apply sealant to the pan-side and put the gasket on, then install the pan to the cleaned block. A good gasket should be able to seal that seam all by itself, and any glue would have the primary purpose of holding the gasket in place while putting the pan back onto the motor.

The reason I would put sealant on the pan is that on the next service, I could carry the pan to the bench and clean it easier than getting under the car and trying to clean the bottom of the engine.

I do not recall any engine that does not use a pan gasket, and that relies solely on sealant.

One strategy is to cut a couple of pieces of all-thread and screw them into the bolt holes to use as alignment pins so the pan goes on straight. Make a couple of guide pins that are about 2 inches long, not important how long, that you can screw and unscrew by hand. Set the gasket straight on the pan, then slide the pan up the pins you installed. Start a couple of screws to hold the pan up, then remove the guides and install the remaining screws. Starting at a hole in the center of the pan, tighten the bolts to a couple of inch pounds, or so, in a criss-cross pattern working from side to side and outward to the ends. Then repeat the pattern with your torque wrench and set the bolts to the proper tightness.

Try retorquing the bolts. The gasket typically 'breaks in' and shrinks, requiring the bolts to be retorqued. Just doing this once should be sufficient to stop the leaks and should never have to be done again.

Thanks.

I have had that happen with pans and I have replaced about 6 of them. Three oil pans on Chevy's and 3 on transmissions. They always needed retorquing after several thermal cycles, but these were with actual gaskets, not RTV sealant

according to the Toyota parts explosion diagram, there was no gasket on those, just silicone. There are however aftermarket gaskets available which may be the way to go if the silicone didn't seal because the pan is slightly banged up. If it didn't seal as an honest mistake (bad luck), he just needs to try again.

The labor rate on that is over 4 hours, so doing it "again - for free" makes for a very bad half-day.

GW

I don't know if it came from the factory with a cork or rubber oil pan gasket, but the factory manual for my 1986 Corolla (1.6L 4AC engine) mentions using only with seal packing part # 08826-00080 in a 3mm bead and installing the pan within 5 minutes of application. Similarly, after my 1993 Ford Escort 1.9L developed a leak at the pan in the first year, the dealer fixed it with only silicone sealer. I know they removed the pan to do that because the oil looked brand new when I got home, then a few days later it turned pea green. The dealer said not to worry about the color.

As far as I remember, a gasket is not required on the oil pan!

It could be that's what's causing the leak.

Also, as far as retorquing...my '80 Corolla (bought brand new) after 2 years started requiring a quart of oil a week. Once I checked the oil and there was barely more than a drop on the dipstick. I was at work and opened the hood to see what the oil level was and the QC inspector, of all people said, hey...look at that! There was a ring of oil all around. I got out a 10mm and tiightened every bolt on the oil pan.

I had to do this about once a year or more. It got so every time I changed the oil I checked the pan bolts. Often one or two would loosen up between oil changes.

This also happened on my '85 GTS, but by this time it was Lesson Learned and the car never lost oil.