Re: Big transmission dilemma

LOL. Toyota's left hand isn't telling it's right hand I guess.

In fact, I'd prefer the thickest approved oil instead of a light weight oil for engine longevity. MPG gained per car is going to so slight the owner won't see a difference, but corporate MPG is what Toyota is going after.

Toyota did not come out with a TSB recommending a different weight oil for vehicles originally requiring 5W30. The 2006 1NZ-FE still requires

5W30, just like the oil cap, service info, and oil related TSBs state.

The 5W20 / 0W20 TSB and revisions state which "new" models/engines require said oil weights, and also state "DO NOT use these oils in engines other than those listed above".

Built_Well <Built_Well snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote in news:4a5e6f4f$0$28112$ snipped-for-privacy@auth.newsreader.octanews.com:

Maybe not, but when I see Owner's Manual comments like this one I quote below, I tend to sit up and listen:

"Use only Honda Genuine ATF-Z1 (Automatic Transmission Fluid). Do not mix with other transmission fluids. Using transmission fluid other than Honda Genuine ATF-Z1 may cause deterioration in transmission operation and durability, and could result in damage to the transmission. Damage resulting from the use of transmission fluid other than Honda Genuine ATF-Z1 is not covered by the Honda new vehicle warranty."

Maybe I can. But I'm just a driveway grease monkey, just like you. When push comes to shove (or when large amounts of money are on the line), I tend to trust what the automaker tells me to do over what's said on the Internet.

And as Toyota MDT says, this would be due to INTERNAL differences not reflected in the model number of the transmission.

Since neither you nor I know what's in any given transmission (being only driveway grease monkeys, as we are), but the automaker DOES know, I think it would be more prudent to follow the specifications in the Owner's Manual that came with your car.

I thought the 2JZ was a RWD 3L inline six out of a supra. and the old 2L six was a 1G-GE.

I don't have a 7M-GE but i do have a 6M-GE.

Built_Well <Built_Well snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote in news:4a639303$0$79705 $ snipped-for-privacy@auth.newsreader.octanews.com:

I repeat my last sentence in my last message:

"A question for you: What does /your/ Owner's Manual specify as the correct fluid for /your/ transmission?"

========

The '06 manual calls for T-IV, just like the web link to the PDF document.

So T-IV for the '06, and ATF WS for the '07 Camry.

With a change of software and friction material you could have a transmission that requres radically different fluid requirements for longevity.

Chrysler went through this with their minivan transmission disaster of the mid 1990's (new tranny-"old" fluid specs).

No need to get defensive or nasty to tegger ma man. Dudes right. They can call that transmission any damn thing they want, different than last year or not.

'07 is different AFAIKT.

Al

Built_Well <Built_Well snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote in news:4a63c0dd$0$28123 $ snipped-for-privacy@auth.newsreader.octanews.com:

I was being "nasty" by making perfectly relevant and reasonable points, and by asking a perfectly relevant and reasonable question?

You're wrong. The chart that I don't know where it comes from or what it's called clearly states that both transaxles are identical in every way. It appears to be from Toyota so it has to be right and my interpretation of it has to be right.

Sorry, I was channeling someone else there for a minute...

Toyota MDT in MO

As usual, it takes a smart man like Ray to shed light on the subject. The part numbers are different for the clutch discs found inside the '06 and '07 U250E transmissions. According to ToyotaPartsAndService.com, the '06 clutch disc has a part number of

31250-28181, whereas the '07 clutch disc has a part number of 31250-33040.

Ray again proves himself as being the man with the most knowledge of Toyotas.

By the way, here are some other part numbers so I don't lose them:

My 2006 Camry air filter = 17801-0H010 My 2006 Camry PCV valve = 12204-28020

As for Toyota MDT referring to me as a matron. Come on, MDT, we both know you've had more dicky in your mouth than I've ever had {chuckle}.

Nothing wrong with that. I know you're a straight-behaving guy most of the time ;-) {Lol}

You're getting awfully close to Tegger, there, though. You better watch it Tegger. MDT might goose you.

Built_Well <Built_Well snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote in news:4a652030$0$28114 $ snipped-for-privacy@auth.newsreader.octanews.com:

I think at this point the correct response from you is to acknowledge that you've learned something new today and to thank your teachers for it.

Schoolyard insults may be amusing to you, but to me they expose abundantly your lack of ability to accept having been wrong.

Toyota MDT was right all along, with Ray O now supporting him. You yourself proved Toyota MDT correct by digging up the part numbers that proved his original assertion.

I thought the same thing too when Ford, Chrysler, and Honda started recommending 0w20 quite a few years ago (Toyota's relatively late to the

20-weight party).

But damn- you should see how good the used oil analyses on many engines running 0w20 are! I wouldn't recommend it for everything, but I no longer believe that its a case of the manufacturers just going for better CAFE at the owners' expense. Engines that are specced for Xw20 oils are holding up *EXTREMELY* well on Xw20 oils. The Ford Modular v8 family in particular seems to thrive on it, and its been specced for it longer than just about any other engine.

Part of that may also be due to the fact that the current Xw20 oils tend to use better base stocks and additive packages than 5w30 and 10w30 oils from the same manufacturers. Its sort of a case of, "to make an Xw20, the oil company HAS to use the good stuff." Also, most 5w20 oils are far on the "thick" end of the allowable 20-wt range, almost as thick as thinner 30 wts.