Re: Transmission trouble

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> > > > > > > > > > It felt like misfire to begin with, the car shook under acceleration > > > > at slow speeds and felt under powered. Once I was on the highway the > > > > check engine light came on and the "o/d off" light started flashing. > > > > After that thetransmissionstarted slipping, and the car didn't move > > > > despite high (4000) engine rpm. > > > > > Disconnecting/reconnecting the battery cleared the check engine and > > > > "o/ > > > > d off" lights, but the slippage persisted. Turning off the ignition > > > > for a minute temporarily fixes the problem but it reappears within 5 > > > > miles. I have repeated this process for 4-5 times but check engine/o/d > > > > off lights haven't come on again. > > > > > Are there any small/ inexpensive-to-fix problems that can cause these > > > > symptoms, or is it going to require atransmissionrebuild? The car is > > > > a 1995 Lexus ES300 with 180K miles on it. > > > > > Thanks in advance, > > > > Tripurari > > > > What is the condition of thetransmissionfluid? When is the last time > > > the > > >transmissionwas serviced, and what kind of service was performed? Make > > > sure thetransmissionfluid is up to the full make on thetransmission > > > dipstick. If thetransmissionfluid on the dipstick is black or brown > > > and > > > has a burnt smell, thetransmissionmay be slipping badly. > > > > The flashing O/D off light is like a check engine light, only for the > > >transmissionand means that thetransmissioncomputer has detected a > > > problem. > > > > Unfortunately, the symptoms you are describing point to a major > > >transmission > > > rebuild or replacement. > > > > -- > > > > Ray O > > > (correct punctuation to reply) > > > Thetransmissionfluid is up to the full mark, and looks and smells > > okay. Not like new, but not dark and burnt either. The filter was > > replaced with a cheap Fram model 5 years back, and two powered flushes > > have been performed over the last 8 years/65K miles. > > > Now that the car is cold, it seems worse. Thetransmissionis emitting > > a high pitched whine and slipping more than ever. The car barely moves > > in the forward or reverse direction. > > > Thanks, > > Tripurari > > > ************** > > I would have the vehicle towed to a competent repair failiity for > > diagnosis. > > If the firsttransmissionflush was performed after the 100,000 mile mark, > > it may have dislodged sediment and fouled a valve or valve body passage.. > > Problems rarely appear immediately after a flush but take a while to > > appear. > > > Good luck! > > -- > > > Ray O > > (correct punctuation to reply) > > This is exactly what happened - the first flush was performed at 115K > and made the 3-4 shift erratic. Further ATF changes and a second power > flush restored the shift, but it was never as smooth again. > > Atransmissionrepair shop is going to take a look at it on Monday. > > Thanks, > Tripurari > > ****** > I think they will find low pressures due to internal blockage, and the low > pressures allowed the clutch packs to slip, resulting in the need for a > rebuild. > -- > > Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)

I just received a diagnosis from the mechanic. He says that the torque converter has gone bust and steel shards from it have gone everywhere in the rest of the transmission. In your experience does this diagnosis match the symptoms? Does it pass the sniff test? I'm going to get an estimate later today.

Reply to
singh.tripurari
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As a follow up I'm happy to report that the 2-3 shift is getting smoother despite my not having done anything. The shop filled the transmission with new fluid when they installed it, and perhaps this new fluid has helped clean the valve body in the 2000 miles I've driven since. I am planning on doing a drain and fill sometime next week.

Is it safe to mix different brands of ATF? Also, will cranking the motor with the drain plug open help flush out more fluid out? Is this a safe practice?

Thanks, Tripurari

Reply to
singh.tripurari

As a follow up I'm happy to report that the 2-3 shift is getting smoother despite my not having done anything. The shop filled the transmission with new fluid when they installed it, and perhaps this new fluid has helped clean the valve body in the 2000 miles I've driven since. I am planning on doing a drain and fill sometime next week.

Is it safe to mix different brands of ATF? Also, will cranking the motor with the drain plug open help flush out more fluid out? Is this a safe practice?

Thanks, Tripurari

****************** Yes, it is safe to mix different brands of ATF but not different types of ATF.

Cranking the motor with the drain plug open may help flush more fluid out but it is not a safe practice because of the risk of running the transmission dry, unless you also have someone filling the ATF at the same time.

Reply to
Ray O

Ray, please correct me if I am wrong! I've for years heard that one should pick a brand of oil (motor or ATF) and stick with that. My thoughts are BS! Each oil has a slightly different base stock AND additive package and going from a GOOD brand to a GOOD brand will not affect the car/transmission as long as its the correct type/range. I feel it might even be beneficial to switch. I've never had anyone explain pros/cons. Thanks Ron in Idaho

Reply to
ron

My car shifts like new. It's a '97 Ford Contour with 165k on it. Never did any maintenance on the tranny, either, other than what the book called for, which is nothing. It shifts from 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 and 4-5.

Jeff

Reply to
Jeff

I have heard of a slight variant - that you shouldn't top up motor oil with a different brand. It had something to do with the additives being incompatible. Changing brands when doing an oil change is supposedly fine since the old oil is nearly gone.

Does ATF also have multi-grade additives?

-Tripurari

Reply to
singh.tripurari

The conventional wisdom is that it is best to stick to a brand of motor oil or ATF and stick with it, and that is what I try to do with my personal vehicles. That said, I've seen thousands of vehicles where the owners do a mix and match with no ill effects as long as the added oil or ATF meets the automaker's specifications.

This is not the case with coolant. I would stick with Toyota red or pink coolant.

Reply to
Ray O

That sounds good for a $350 transmission (plus labor of course). Besides the ATF drain, consider doing the differential too, if the shop hasn't changed it.

I'm not sure how mechanically inclined you are, but I'd also drop the pan and replace the strainer and pan gasket. Most importantly, to wipe the pan off the sludge of metal and friction material from over the years.

Do not reuse the old strainer, just get an ATF kit. The Fram one with cork-rubber gasket works well for me. Place the magnets in the correct locations and retighten the bolts in a star pattern. Cleanliness and fluid level accuracy are important when working on transmissions.

Reply to
johngdole

The only problem you "might" run into with mixing and matching of motor oil is incompatible additives. I have no proof one way or the other but it seems reasonable to me that the additive package (detergent, multi-weight, etc) of one brand of oil might either neutralize or reinforce the additive package of another brand.

The above would be true if you just switched brands but stayed with the same weight and service rating. If you add 20w-40 diesel engine oil to 5w-30 synthetic, well that would be a no-no.

Jack j

Reply to
Retired VIP

When I specified synthetic for my vehicle, the people said, "That's all we use." Well, it turned out to be semisynthetic.

Anyway, I don't think the brand matters as long as it is a quality brand. After all, that is why the automakers do have specs. If they meet the specs, you know that it is good enough.

Jeff

Reply to
Jeff

Thanks Ray - I've always used Toyota ATF & anti-freeze. I have been using castrol for the Avalon and Highlander but since I change at 3000 with "lifetime" service thru dealer (Lithia) here they use Quaker State. I can't wait to see the flames on this usage!! I do not mix/match and have never, since owning Toyotas, had to add oil between changes. First Toy in 96, all were sold by the dealer after we traded them in as "certified" for what ever worth that is! Ron

Reply to
ron

I have replaced the strainer a couple of times in the past, but these days I try to avoid spending too much time *under* the car. Does the Fram cork last very long?

-T

Reply to
singh.tripurari

Lifetime service sounds like a good deal - the pain of paying is past so you can be guilt-free in getting the best service possible.

I, on the other hand, will be getting greasy under my car this weekend changing the oil.

Reply to
Ray O

Every year it is getting harder for me to do that. Either cars are getting lower, or I am getting wider.

Reply to
Mark A

Changing my oil is not as much fun as it was when I started 37 years ago either.

By the way, Wal-Mart was out of the Castrol oil I usually use so I picked up Mobil 1 instead. That stuff is about a buck a quart more than the Castrol Syntec. I also found a bubble in a tire right where the sidewall meets the tread thanks to out local potholes, so I'll have to drop more money into some tires. I think I liked getting a new car every 3 or 4 months more than this ownership gig.

Reply to
Ray O

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