Replacing power window regulator on '99 Camry

I tested the metal parts with a magnet this morning. The plate is steel, but the gear/plug isn't attracted to my magnet. Since it's so light I'm guessing it's aluminum.

... and the guy from Home Depot said, no way will I be able to weld aluminum to steel.

So, I'm trying JB Weld again, but this time with a steel washer behind the gear/plug.

I took a few pictures, and hopefully if this works I'll post them...

Thanks again y'all,

Michael

Yeah, my propane blowtorch took off the excess dried glue in a hurry. =3D)

=3D)

This is the set of instructions I was using:

For future reference:

Step 2, remove power window switch, isn't necessary.

Step 5, remove door inside handle, isn't necessary either. I spent a LOT of time trying to get that thing off, even more time putting it back on, and the second time I went in there to fix the failed JB Weld, I didn't even bother to remove the handle, and no problem.

Step 7a (remove the bolt and nut holding the rear side frame to the door) isn't necessary.

Step 7, remove door glass and run, well, isn't possible unless you press the window switch to lower the window glass all the way. "Where

*are* those two freakin' bolts? I don't see them anywhere! OH! Lower the window... DUH!" =3D)

Steps 8 and 9, 12 and 13 aren't necessary to just replace the window regulator.

Before putting the door back on, you have to get those little plastic circular clips off the door and put them on the door trim. If you don't, you won't be able to get the door trim back on.

And, of course, when putting the door back on, you have to attach it from the TOP first.

I wish I'd thought of this earlier, but if you're not sure how the left side fits together, take apart the right side.

Or go to a junk yard and look there.

Nup, that was a manual regulator, as Michael pointed out. I still urge Michael to look up the proper replacement part in the Rockauto catalog. They're good folks.

--Winston

And it failed again. (grr...)

You inspired me to try and give Rockauto another try, and I think I finally found what I need this time.

Part # 821103MR ($67, rear left, motor+regulator)

I guess I could also try Part # TO1550114, $46...

What do you suggest... should I spend a little more on supposedly better quality (higher torque motor, so they claim in the $67 part)...?

Thanks!

Michael

(...)

Lots of times you get what you pay for. I got *very* tired of replacing a heater core a couple months ago after having purchased a 'bargain' part. I ended up buying the more expensive part anyway.

Probably cheaper to buy the $67 part, in the long run.

--Winston

Ok! I'll order it tonight. Thanks again! =3D)

Michael

(...)

Let us know how it goes. :)

--Winston

Yup, the part came in the mail a few days ago. There was a moment of panic when I saw what looked like a loose rod, but after some thought, oh, that will just be bolted to the door. Took the old regulator out (yeah it broke again, JB Weld or no JB Weld), put the new one in, and it seems to work just fine. Slows down slightly just before reaching the top, but, hey, it's a $67, not a $130+ part. Fine by me.

Thanks for the RockAuto suggestion!

Michael

Excellent news, Michael!

I tip my hat in your direction.

--Winston

And thank *you* for the advice that saved me quite a bit of cash, Winston. :)

Michael

You are most welcome. :)

--Winston

...

Ah, hmm, I think I understand this a little more now. The motor is the part that is secured by three star screws, right? If so, then it was just my regulator that was busted (the screw/gear/whatever came off). The motor is still fine. I could have saved some more money just by buying the regulator itself, but I had confused the "motor" with the whole right-side part that was separated by that broken screw/ gear. Oh well.

It's fine though because I think my parents' '01 Camry have a busted motor on *their* front window. I took the (working) motor apart from the busted regulator bits and when I head to their place for Father's Day I'll see what I can do... hopefully I can still use the motor even though it's for the front, but if not there's always rockauto.com, haha.

Michael

Yup, good thing I had bought a motor + regulator. Their motor was busted (I read somewhere there is some sort of reed switch inside the motor that can go bad) and their front window works fine now after I installed our motor, taken from our rear window. The front and rear motors are interchangeable, EXCEPT you have to reverse the wiring. Found that out when the thing went up when I pressed the DOWN button, and was puzzled. The motors were both from the Driver's side, too... weird.

M

That's what I told my girlfriend when I was driving her car and I swerved left to avoid a tree but it went right and I hit it. I told her the wires on the power steering pump were backwards. She took it in to get the steering repaired. Fortunately I know where she took it.

Oh. My. Goodness. You'd think that a little bit of driving around the repair shop would give a hint something was up with the power steering, no?

Well, glad to hear you're alright...

Well, I was just planning for what I would say if I ran a car into a tree. "The wires were backwards" sounded like a good story.