Supra For Sale? Cheep? (Any Ideas from our Master Techs?)

Man, o, man...

The oil pan was tight. It still leaks, down the sides and esp in the front and rear.

More unnerving than that; in the front of the engine, above the oil pan, where the crank pulley comes out at the front, there are great gobs of oil just to the left of it looking at it from the front of the car. Also, at the rear of the engine, where the tranny mounts to the motor...

This does NOT look good...

I'm thinking both Front AND Rear Main Seals here...?

One of the techs said someone may have put a cork gasket in the oil pan, but I didn't see any evidence; but I didn't loosen the pan, either. Still, it LOOKED like the pan was interfacing just with the block.

Also found the leak in the fuel tank; there was a rust hole at the bottom of the filler neck. I got a fuel tank repair kit and patched the hole. I carefully added 5 gallons to the tank. It was leaking a little while filling but when I would let up it would stop. I went in and got a cuppa and when I came out...fuel dripping from the plastic 'pan' onto the ground. I made one stop at a store and must have lost a quart while I was inside.

I think this can be easily fixed by draining and dropping the tank and using both the 'plastic' stuff you swish around inside the tank, and an external repair kit as well. New tank is $375...

Also noticed the rear 1/4 was a LOT rustier than I initially thought. a LOT. Looks easily repairable, but it's all punky behind the bumper cover on the pass. side; probably as well on the driver's, too.

The real question here is; since I have to repair the damn tranny as well, I was going to leave the tranny on the car and replace the solenoids; is it possible to remove the tranny totally and replace the seals without removing the engine? This is an '88, non-turbo 7M-GE. We have had the 'front' of the engine off (pulleys, etc) when we did the timing belt, we also had the radiator out. These pieces should come out easily; I am going to remove the front facia for the Body Shop anyway.

Do I have a chance here?

Reply to
Hachiroku
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I'm sure the checked this all ready, but if you over-torqued the oil pan bolts you may have bent the oil pan bolt holes above the sealing surface of the pan. I had a similar problem and I was unable to fix it with the stock pan. I got a new oil pan and gasket on eBay for $30, it still leaked. I used large valve cover spreaders and trimmed them to fit anywhere and everywhere it leaked, and torqued the bolts. Leaks a little now at the rear seal but I dont care. I probably could have put some liquid gasket on there before I put the pan back on, but it wasn't worth it. This was on my girlfriends 3.1L chev.

HTH

Carl

Reply to
Carl Saiyed

Hmmm...I didn't over torque at all; I just checked 'em. They DID seem pretty tight. Maybe they were over torqued already.

I work at a dealer, I can get a NEW pan for about $100.

Debating...fix it, or just run it till it blows...

Reply to
Hachiroku

The pan I got was also brand new. Guy bought the wrong one and I guess couldn't return it. I would try the valve cover spreaders on every bolt anywhere near where it is leaking along with some gasket sealer.

Carl

Reply to
Carl Saiyed

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