Yo Hach: Airtex fuel pumps?

Unfortunatelt, no. Where did it come from?

I can't remember the brand we sold at CarQuest, but they had a very low failure rate.

The only time I ever had to replace a fuel pump in my Toyota, I sprang for the Real Deal. $475, but I figured if I got 12 years out of the first one, it was probably a safe bet.

What kind of car is it, how many miles, etc? (in other words, is it WORTH springing for a real F.P.?)

Also, what are the symptoms? On a Nissan I had, first there was a bad connection (I know this because hammering on the connection would make the car start!) and then a clogged fuel filter. When I removed the filter and turned it upside-down, *MUD* came out!

I think we had Carter fuel pumps...

96 Camry wagon, 97k miles. A month ago, turned over, no start. Diagnosed as fuel pump, which the mechanic replaced. $600-ish, total.

But: My son wanted to find out what happens when you bring a car to an unknown mechanic. He found out. A week later, he saw how filthy my air filter was, and wanted to check his. We found all 4 clips undone, as well as two hoses. Now he's learned that when you find out the mechanic is a slob, you have doubts about absolutely everything they do.

Airtex should be good, as they supply many pumps to NAPA and auto manufacturers. How did the slob mechanic determine the pump was bad? Was the acceleration or high speed operation week? At the very least he should have measured the fuel pressure and volume rate, but such mechanics often simply declare the pump bad and change it. A pump can be overloaded by a badly clogged filter or even clogged fuel lines, which can be checked by measuring fuel pressure and volume rate, but an excessive voltage drop, such as from corroded wiring connections, can also overload it and cause the current draw to increase (with engine running, measure at battery terminals and then at the pump terminals; they should be within 0.5V of one another). I've seen a few tech bulletins about fuel pump wiring problems, and for my old VW the whole harness to the pump was replaced.

Airtex should be good, as they supply many pumps to NAPA and auto manufacturers. How did the slob mechanic determine the pump was bad? Was the acceleration or high speed operation week? At the very least he should have measured the fuel pressure and volume rate, but such mechanics often simply declare the pump bad and change it. A pump can be overloaded by a badly clogged filter or even clogged fuel lines, which can be checked by measuring fuel pressure and volume rate, but an excessive voltage drop, such as from corroded wiring connections, can also overload it and cause the current draw to increase (with engine running, measure at battery terminals and then at the pump terminals; they should be within 0.5V of one another). I've seen a few tech bulletins about fuel pump wiring problems, and for my old VW the whole harness to the pump was replaced.

Airtex should be good, as they supply many pumps to NAPA and auto manufacturers. How did the slob mechanic determine the pump was bad? Was the acceleration or high speed operation week? At the very least he should have measured the fuel pressure and volume rate, but such mechanics often simply declare the pump bad and change it. A pump can be overloaded by a badly clogged filter or even clogged fuel lines, which can be checked by measuring fuel pressure and volume rate, but an excessive voltage drop, such as from corroded wiring connections, can also overload it and cause the current draw to increase (with engine running, measure at battery terminals and then at the pump terminals; they should be within 0.5V of one another). I've seen a few tech bulletins about fuel pump wiring problems, and for my old VW the whole harness to the pump was replaced.

Damn, I think you could have had a *REAL* one installed for that!

The fuel pump isn't that hard. If you're lucky, there's a cover in the rear of the car that will give you access to it; if not, this means dropping the tank (that's a PITA). The fuel pump is held in by a number of screws with a gasket.

And, I'm a slob, but I'm a *thorough* slob, so when I do something it's usually done right...

I'd see if I can get a manual for this car and see how tough it is. I did the FP on my Nissan twice...not hard.

I'm curious as to why a FP went bad at 97K! Did the car sit for a LONG time?

The price supposedly covered diagnosis of a whole list of other stuff that could've caused the problem. Unfortunately, time and work constraints prevented our doing some of the initial checks ourselves.

The fuel pump's got access by lifting the back seat in this car. It was just towed back to the garage. Had a little chat with the owner about how I get when my kid's safety is threatened. A failed pump would have been a safety issue if it had happened on a highway. I think he understood what I did NOT say.

Sorry for the dupes.

My father used to sell them back in the 80s. They were pretty good quality.

Jeff

Fuel pump failures in '96 Camrys are pretty rare, especially with the relatively low miles. Unless the mechanic measured fuel delivery volume and pressure, it is possible that the fuel pump was not the problem.

That said, early fuel pump failure can occur if the car is often run out of gas.

Any news?

Plenty:

1) It was towed there yesterday morning. They still haven't touched it, due to various lame excuses. When I was there two hours ago, the guy asked "Is this the one that's here for the NY inspection?" Then, "Sorry, but I just lost a mechanic to (some dealer) and we're swamped". Finally, "Tell me the symptoms again....". I explained that the credit card bill just arrived, and although I don't want to stop payment, I think their priorities are a little strange if they don't deal with a job gone bad (maybe).

2) Last week, my son took the car to the RIGHT mechanic for an oil change, and to check a slight exhaust noise. The mechanic gave him a tour of the bottom of his car, something he'd never seen before. Showed him where the exhaust leak was, why e-brakes seize up sometimes, and other good stuff. On the way home, he said "OK - I'm convinced. Those guys are teachers." They sent him elsewhere for the exhaust issue, and explained why it would be cheaper that way. The kid's amazed. Then, he gets this bullshit from the other place.

And....just as I was about to tell you tomorrow's plan, they called and said the car was ready.

Me: "What was wrong?" Him: "Umm... (mumbling to someone else and then) ....it was a warranty repair". Me: "Repair of what? What was fixed?" (more mumbling) Him: "Loose connection at the fuel pump".

I'm taking the back seat out this weekend. If I don't see signs of a new pump, I'll stop by on Saturday to make a scene with plenty of their loyal customers around. And, stopping the credit card payment, of course.

O---K...Like I said, I may be a sloppy mechanic, but I'm a THOROUGH sloppy mechanic!

Hope this works...

Well, theoretically, it's done. However, I'll be giving my son a lesson in dealing with a car that dies and the power steering is gone. If I want to simulate this in a big parking lot, whattya think? Kill ignition while in drive, or put it in neutral and kill the ignition? The first way sounds all wrong for the car.

neutral first. Although I believe the trans can take it, why risk it?

Sounds like you had *enough* trouble already! ;)