- posted
18 years ago
93 camry just dies
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- posted
18 years ago
Does it get spark when it dies, maybe electrical the coil.
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- posted
18 years ago
Do you experience the stalling when the vehicle is coming to a stop?
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- posted
18 years ago
I have the same car exactly and I am experincing the same problem.Most of the time it stalls when you move your foot from the brake to the gas pedal. I had the tune up done, also changed the fuel filter but it still keeps stalling like that. I took it to the auto shop and they could not find out and solve the problem. Any ideas? Thanks Rachel
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- posted
18 years ago
If dash temp gauge says its not hot, its probably OK. We dont get to appreciate how hot an engine is unless we pop the bonnet at a breakdown,..lots of ouchies.
If fuel pressure says "all OK" plus filter etc been changed,..time to do an ignition check. This wont be easy 'cause it starts up again after it snuffs,..so,..and I know this sounds a bit off-beat,..somehow attach an ignition timing gun (strobe) in the normal way (use an inductive pick-up type,..less bities that way) and run it into the cabin. Using a zip-clip or tape, hold the trigger on. This means when it does its engine shutdown thing, you may see the strobelight stop at the same time indicating *no spark*. From there its the usual culprits: coil or dizzy-cap or low-voltage (12v switching) intermittant wiring. More likely spark side as once the engine is loaded, the reluctance across the plug increases and the spark takes the easiest route to ground, via a crack in the coil insulation or dizzy-cap.
Jason
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- posted
18 years ago
Since all I drive it right now is around the block, yes it dies when slowing down. The engine check light doesn't come on till I put the car in Drive and give it some gas. It will drive normally for about 1 mile before it dies then you have to keep it running to get back home.
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- posted
18 years ago
=========================== If you have the ignition coil inside the distributor (non-California version) check there first. Intermittent problems as you describe are usually electrical in origin and that coil seems to be a common problem. According to the factory service manual, you check for specified resistance while tapping and heating with a heat gun (hair dryer should suffice also) to simulate road vibration and heat. Actually that advice was in the general information section for electrical components. I'd check the coil first. There are specifications for resistance. If you don't have the factory manual, Haynes has them. Also this site has more information under "ignition system":