trying to replace the fuel filter, I was able to initially free the bottom compression nut, but it got to a point where it's about halfway out and it really won't turn anymore...what's going on? It should just unscrew, right? Is there thread sealant on that one? Bought a flare nut wrench for this one (14mm) and it stripped it anyway...Any advice for gripping it now? frustrated in PA.
It should be able to loosen with finger after the first turn. may need to use vice grips or mini pipe wrench. wonder if it was crossthreaded on last filter change.
I've had trouble with these. I think toyota or whoever makes these have an uneven thread on them. But I usually dont have problem removing them (although removing them is also a pain in the ass ) Sometime the filter itself has a place for a wrench. I usually use 2 wrenches one to hold the filter and the other to turn the nut. Also I use a crowfoot wrench sometimes with an extension if the flarenut wrench doesnt work. But my main problem with these is when I hand start the nuts the uneven thread makes it difficult to tell wether I started it correctly or not. Maybe you could have someone come from the top and grab filter with crowfoot and extension and turn filter while you hold nut from bottom with a locking pliers. But if you stripped nut you might see if other end of steel line can be disconnected so you could buy new section from dealer, since you might not be able to tighten nut on new filter.
Many complaints about removing that nut. Kroil rust penetrant is a good start. Let it soak in for a while. Hot ticket to removing the lower fitting is to use a crow foot flare wrench. Seems the standard flare nut wrenches can flex during use, (some people routinely use vice grip pliers over the flare nut wrench - but there's not much room for this here) but the crow foot type that goes on a ratchet handle extension is thicker. Had been concerned, but mine spun right off. (Found the top nut was much tighter) There is no reason why it would hang part way out. The threads are dry, with a tapered end - compression fit. Once released, should come all the way out without binding. You could try smoothing the damaged edges with a dremel type tool or file and then using the crow foot wrench. Chances are you'll have to replace that section of fuel line. Not uncommon so dealer should be familiar with that part. Actually, sorry, don't have a clue what would be binding - once initially loosened, should come right out. Calm down. Have another look. You're installing a new fuel filter anyway - and now you're going to need a new fuel line also, so (as long as it is dry of fuel to prevent sparks creating a fire) you could just cut out the old line and replace both with new.
Thanks for all the advice, fellows, I really appreciate it. Well, weekend mechanic that I am, I was able to remove more items (air cleaner assy, charcoal cannister) to get more leverage room, grasped that sorry excuse for a nut with my big channel-locks and literally with all my strength (in that tight space) was able to turn the nut back into the old filter -- crossthreading seems too delicate a term, it was really wedged in there. It held gas pressure but, I'll schedule a session with my Toyota service man and let him fix me up with a new filter and line if needed. I have to draw the line somewhere: All I need to make an amateur mistake and end up on the shadow traffic as a "car fire". I'll stick to mechanical things, electrical things, fluids, and maintenance.
For those attempting this I would listen to the guys who helped me above. My experience indicated: Maybe changing at 60k intervals would alleviate my problem (140k of deterioration), but definitely use penetrating oil (my top banjo bolt unsealed and came out fine-with 18" breaker bar!), I worked from above with a handy mirror (preferable to gas dripping on my face), leverage with short wrenches and limited space was a real problem, removing the air assy and cannister was easy and gave more room, I like the idea of vice grips on the flare wrench--will use that one in the future, but no room on this job.....actually nix all that: take it to the dealer, or Dan.
I had a problem with one of those on a 97 Camry, 90k miles on it. Somebody had previously tried to unscrew it and squashed the nut a little. I got it off but it was tight all the way. It wouldn't screw all the way back in on the new filter, so I cut off the fuel line on both sides and used an standard inline filter that fit perfectly. The car actually had a noticeable improvement in acceleration but I don't know whether the old filter was so clogged or the generic inline filter allowed more fuel to pass thru. I thought I was going to take it to a dealer too, but it was a weekend.
I've changed probably 5 or so of these fuel filters on all sorts of toyotas, same location, pretty much the same filter. Only had a problem with the first one. If you don't use a flare wrench, don't try it.
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