Check engine light after fuel filter change

Your camry doesnt have a "change oil light." Only the newer models are pre-programed to flash either the maintainence req. light or service engine soon light, which is also considered the check engine light.

When dealing with fuel filters, size DOES matter. Unfortunately, they might have not only installed a generic fuel filter, but one that fits theoretically but is not an acceptable replacement for your particular vehicle.

I'd say take it back or get a toyota fuel filter installed. You can reset the check engine light by removing the battery terminal cables, waiting a mintue, and then reconnecting them.

You cannot re-set the light by disconnecting the battery. Yes, it will turn the light off, but only temporarily. If there is a problem, it will come back on. You can go to AutoZone and have it decoded. They do it for free. The CEL usually comes on because it has detected a problem with the emissions system.

Let us know what code you get.

Lesson learned I hope..They have the cheapest generic one size fits all if not we duct tape it parts. I would say go back but no idea what they will screw up next.

The filter maybe inferior in capacity, but unless you had a lot of dirt etc in the tank, the new filter should not caise any problems until it either 1. allows a particle of dirt to go past it and block an injector, in which case the car would lose power from the associated cylinder or 2. the filter would block causing engine shutdown due low fuel-pressure. I cant see how it could cause the problems you are mentioning. The code-reader may clear things up.

A note on filter sizes.

On the Mitsubishi MPFI 2.6L Astron motors the early filters were huge, about

4 inches diameter. The later models have a much smaller filter. So is size all that relevant? In any case, a Toyota filter may have been prudent,..but as I said, not sure, at this early stage if it would matter.

Jason

Do yourself a favor. Don't get mechanical work done at EZ-lube. There's a difference betwwen a skilled mechanic and the people who do the oil changes for a living. There's also a difference between Toyota genuine parts and low cost alternates. Your choice. Perhaps you should consider yourself fortunate that the problem became apparent right away. If you notice changes in the car's behaviour right after the service work, that's a good clue it was related. Best bet: have the work re done at a reputable shop. Maybe just me, but I've had horrid experiences at chain outlets. For example: Quick lube place had the transmission (manual) fill plug so tight and mangled it took the shop owner (elsewhere) half an hour with an acetylene torch to remove it when refilling after a clutch replacement. Tire shop forgot the cotter pin on a ball joint replacement which caused the front corner of the car to come crashing down without warning months later. Transmission chain rebuilt four speed transmission (manual) and when the linkage was misadjusted so it only had three gears their response was: "You must have the three speed model."

If it wasn't so serious (especially the "You must have the three speed model." comment) it would be arm-pinchingly funny (pinch your arm to make sure you aren't dreaming). I can only fully agree that it is imperitive a good reputable mechanical workshop is employed to do work on your car. They may charge "by the book" (labor times for each job determined by the industry regulator), but at least you know that the best of work is done AND if there is a subsequent problem, they will happily check it out for you AND if it's their fault, my experience is, they will not bill you for the fix.

How do you find a reputable mechanic if you don't wish to use a dealer's facilities? Ask around. Ask as many people you can, who is their mechanic and have they had any problems with jobs which are not (as Dan says) just "oil and lube".

I had some aork done which I couldn't fix myself. It was related to a 351 Ford V8 which was "dual-fuel" ie petrol or LPG. The fix took the mechanic many hours, but he finally found it ( a small leak between the EGR and a special composite gasket ($30 a pop) at the carby base. By comparison, I had spent many months trying to find why the car ran intermittantly rough on LPG. The bill was $500 or so, because some machining was done etc,..but I was happy to pay it, for they were a professional outfit who took the time to show-me the buggered parts, and how they proceeded to the eventual fix.

Jason

Thanks all.

Go to Autozone and have them read the check engine code. Let us know what it is.