Should I replace the brake rotors?

Hi all,

yesterday I had my 2000 Camry XLE checked by dealer on a regular oil change visit. The mechanic recommends changing the braking pads and rotors. The front brake pads have 15% left in them and the back ones have 30% left. They are asking $398 * 2 = $796 Canadian dollars to replace them. I was SHOCKED by the price! Should I let them replace the rotors and the pads or just pad replacement?

Thanks!

Reply to
Godzilla
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It depends. I usually do the job myself (really easy).

First, I only replace the pads. Then I do a test drive. If there is vibration when braking, I take the rotors off and have them resurfaced for $10 (US) a piece at a local machine shop. Worst case scenario is that I spent $60 on pads, $20 on resurfacing the rotors, and about an hour of my time.

If you don't want to do it yourself, see if a local mechanic (not the dealer) will do the pads and resurface your rotors. Rotors are not cheap.

Reply to
O.B.

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Thanks, I still need to find a local shop willing to do it for me :(

Reply to
Godzilla

I doubt your back brakes are in need of replacement. My 97 has the original rear shoes with 183,000 miles on them. They have 1/2 the pad left. Aftermarket rotors are very cheap. One place had them for $19 each. I doubt they are as good as the Toyotas.

Reply to
ROBMURR

That should be no problem. Any decent shop will either have a brake lathe or send the rotors out to the parts house they deal with, should a resurface be necessary. FWIW YMMV DFB

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Reply to
MisterSkippy

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I can't understand the shift to replacing rotors as often as recommended these days. As long as the rotor surface has a reasonable appearance with no deep scoring and the brakes feel smooth with no pedal or steering vibration, they chould be OK.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

Jason, let me explain it to you.

The rotor cannot be safely used when it has worn down to, or below, the minimum thickness stamped or cast on the edge or center area of the rotor. This is especially true of non-vented rotors. It is also legally prohibited for ANY shop to turn a rotor so worn.

The finished surface must not make the rotor thinner than the minimum stated thickness either.

A surface that has lots of ribs, ridges, or whose surface is work hardened is NOT going to seat up a new set of pads so that they perform as well as new ... ever.

As a rotor gets badly glazed, it is not uncommon to get a "grinding vibration" complaint from the driver. This indication is also associated with accelerated braking fade and the stench of hot friction material when decending long grades with the brakes lightly or repeatedly applied.

With the advent of CHINA getting into the replacement parts business, cast rotors can be cheap but soft (typical Chinese stuff) or harder and longer lasting (also nearly double the price) from American manufacturers. The soft rotors may be good for ONE trip to the brake lathe.

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- Philip @ Maximum Torque RPM
Reply to
Philip®

Absolutely. Not for a minute would I recommend continued use of an under-thickness rotor.

True.

Yeah. I think this condition is frequently overlooked, and I shoulda mentioned it.

There are just some areas where you dont feel like buying super-cheap,.brakes is one.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

You guys have talked about rotors but what manufacturer would you use for pads? I have a 1997 Camry and with Aimco rotors and Autozones best pads have a pulsing pedal. I know warped rotors. But I redid the setup with turned rotors and replacement pads and still they warp. I check the caliper and puck and both are free and move easily.

Does the Toyota brake system necessitate using Toyota pads? Or can you, that is I, get away with using third party parts?

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Reply to
Greg B

Pulsing brakes pedal comes from warped rotors. Period. Now .... how a rotor gets warped is interesting. You can use low quality Chinese junk (pun) rotors ... they don't hold up well as OEM. You can unevenly torque up the lugs nuts which induces some stress which will warp even the best rotors earlier than they would otherwise. Never sock down lug nuts completely, one by one. Run them down in three steps and use a torque wrench. Pads >can< contribute to rotor warping. If you have a low quality pad that overheats easily (smell of burning pads on mountain down grades), the excess heat and fading brakes will overheat the rotors .... premature warpage.

Buy name brand pads (Raybestos, Bendix, Toyota, etc) and mount-up hardware.

Buy name brand rotors. Cheap ends up costing you more over the long run.

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- Philip @ Maximum Torque RPM




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Philip®

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