Supercharger for my 91 Camry (4cyl)

Even if you could it is an old motor, you would kill it quickly.

Mark has a point. One of the reasons that engine is so reliable is that the power rating doesn't put much stress on the bearings. You'd have better luck finding a turbo charger than a super charger. There have been some experimental versions floating around the web. Usually they have cautions like, "we tried raising the boost and bent a connecting rod but expect to have a marketable version available soon."

The link is for the 5S-FE - you have the 3S-FE - call them - might be able to work something out - the engines are quite similar. Didn't spend much time looking at that page, because I value the reliability of my Camry as one of its best features, but looks like they may have worked out most of the issues with their turbo by now. Bear in mind, you'll probably spend more on the turbo kit than the value of your whole car. Personally, having prior experience with "over" improving cars, I stick with maximizing the stock performance. My favorite is the Redline complete fuel system cleaner because it is safe, reasonably priced and extensively tested. Takes about 10,000 miles for full effect though. Says right on the bottle "Adds Power" and it does. Much of the power from the Toyota engines comes from the four valves per cylinder, and over time the valve faces can collect deposits reducing breathing efficiency so that's where the Redline can restore to near 100% efficiency. It does make a difference. You use the full bottle the first time, then just a little with each tankful of fuel. Also make sure the air filter is clean. If you want to spend money, get an air compressor - that way you can blow it out (as recommended by the service manual) with each oil change. Here's another power increasing modification I like: press the accelerator pedal to the floor with a block of concrete and a short section of 2 x 4, then adjust the throttle cable under the hood to open fully. Change all your secondary electrical components more often - distributor cap, rotor, wires and plugs - all with factory stock components. Learn to use the power band. On the 5S-FE max. HP is around 5K RPM, max. torque around 4K RPM. If you've got the stock engine, revving it up won't hurt it, but you will at least be able to access the available power. (gas mileage plummets, though) Try Mobil 1 in the differential, transaxle, engine and power steering. Someone neglected changing the fluid in my diff., but I could detect an immediate increase in power after changing it. I also like the Lucas products. If you do go to turbo - synthetic lubricants will be even more important.

Also if you have an auto trans you will kill it fairly fast, but do as you wish, power comes at a price.

I agree with all of you about the reliability being the key point about old camry's (or new ones for that matter).

The thing is, I want around 20 more horsepower, not 60 or 70. It seems like that number would bring it to a level where it can keep up with other cars nowadays...

I put in a K&N cone filter and got rid of the old filter assembly. That did a little but not too much. I also add Injector cleaner every tank fillup.

Now would a better exhaust noticebly improve the power, or is that section already optimized in the car?

--Shafik

You live in the US? Try looking at this site:

Burien Toyota have a good name in turboing the DOHC 4cyl Camry,...going by the number of times Burien are mentioned in regard to the matter.

Jason

The cost of a turbo will probably equal the value of the car today. Check the compression now, it may be just worn, if so stressing an old motor isnt wise. Check timing, retarded timing reduces power. When I changed everything to Mobil synthetic, trans, differential, motor I got alot more power. Your catalitic converter could be clogged and many other simple things needing replacement. Those cars last because the motors are not stressed, price a new trans and motor first if you plan on keeping it. Power is fun, but you will pay now and later.

Comment only:

The exhaust,cams, head and inlet manifold (which has long intake pipes) are tuned to provide optimum efficiency in the normal driving range. If you install a free-er flowing exhaust, the wholematched package will be upset. Sure, the engine will breathe better at higher revs, but to really take advantage of that, you need to run wider overlap cams, shorter intake tubes to match the shift up in revs. Then you have the engine computer which may not be able to handle the now different parameters,....

Jason