toyota start up problems stalling

Sep 10, 2006 7 Replies

I have a problems starting my 1990 camry. If i leave the car off for 24 hours it has problems staring up it will stall for the first 20 minutes driving but after that the car is fine. i replaced the cap, wires, and rotor problem is not as bad but still persists. I have read on a few discussion boards that it might be the Coil, basicaly they said it hased to be cleaned? however i do not know what this means is it easy to do and what do i clean it with and most importantly ware is it on the car. any help would be greatly appreciated



Its most likely the coil is oiled up and shorting as the water turns to vapor. Try tightening your Cap first, Is there a gasket there sealing the cap to distributor, there must be one in place. The coil is under the cap on the distributor, use alcohol on a white rag and spray electronics cleaner. If the rag is oily black oil is leaking past the O ring, a common issue. If cleaning and tightening the cap won`t help you need to remove the distributor to replace the coil and O ring. I solved my 91s same issue with a good cleaning and tight cap, after no mechanic could figure it out for years and years

Please forward all information you get about this because I'm getting the same problem (with a 1990 LE 4cyl)... usually when it's humid outside. I had the same problem with the 89 LS 4cyl I had before... It's really annoying. I also replaced the cap and wires and I checked the coil... It was spotless! I've been spraying WD40 on the wires and cap to help dry everything but I don't think it's working... There has been a few posts in this newsgroup about this problem but nothing seems to work. Thanks

That's good info Mark. Any gunk which provides a spark-track to ground around the coil, which is not protected by gunk proof silicone insulating gloves, like conventional (read dated) coils, is often a problem.

Jason

Your problem sounds like the engine temperature sensor. It may or may not trip the check engine light. When mine went, it did not trip the check engine light, but there was a stored code that pointed to the sensor. The computer thought the engine was warm, so the fuel mixture was wrong for a cold engine and you would have to keep you foot on the gas, or the engine would stall until it warmed up a little.

Tony

Ok cool that does not seem to hard. so basicly i unscrew the screws and take the cap off and the pull the rotor off. Now once you pull it off i just give it an alchole rub all around the area where i took everything off. i am sorry im not great with cars i can change oil change cap rotors, fuses, and things like that but im not very mechanicaly inclined. So basialy what im asking is the coil write whare the roter and cap is and what does it look like.

Ok cool that does not seem to hard. so basicly i unscrew the screws and take the cap off and the pull the rotor off. Now once you pull it off i just give it an alchole rub all around the area where i took everything off. i am sorry im not great with cars i can change oil change cap rotors, fuses, and things like that but im not very mechanicaly inclined. So basialy what im asking is the coil write whare the roter and cap is and what does it look like.

2 sides of the coil you cant clean. Coils go bad and the gasket on the distributor-cap Toy says Replace dont re use, I still say its distributor-coil related, to moisture

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