1990 Pick-up Compression Loss & Drive Belt Squealing

Needing some help on this one. Have been doing repairs myself, but this is beyond me.
Symptoms: Truck began loosing power and bucking especially on upgrades, not at
slow speeds, usually high, at worst slowing truck down from 65mph to 35. Did not happen on restart after pulling over. Was a very inconsistant problem--only on hill accelerations coming home from T-day trip. Noticeable clacking in the engine. Managed to get it home by not pushing when the power ebbed which kept it from bucking, and driving slow.
Recent history: Had the oil changed before the trip-- has a known leak. After getting back home, figured out that they used 5W30 and either didn't fill properly, this grade was just too thin (stupid shop), or my leak has gotten much worse very quickly. No oil light on, was not totally empty but low, put 3qts of 10W40 into it to refill.
Now, I start the truck: The alternator/fan belt is running, but the other belt (the drive belt? I only know so much) is completely skipping--squealing and smoking like a chimney.
Further history on this pick-up: Replaced alternator & belt (few months ago), starter (almost same), clutch (with much help--1998), shocks and other things that could have nothing at all to do with current problem (over the years), battery tests fine, oil is changed regularly (usually the 3K mark, never been later than 5K), transmission linkage needs some work soon. Truck has 176K miles, am not original owner--bought it in '97 at 82K-- minor body dings/rust, but has always run like a dream til this.
I figure this kind of repair will be way, way beyond me, but you never know & I want to have some idea at least so the "new" shop doesn't take me for a ride.
Thanks for any info--need help! --TinaG
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TinaG wrote:

at slow speeds, usually high, at worst slowing truck down from 65mph to 35. Did not happen on restart after pulling over. Was a very inconsistant problem--only on hill accelerations coming home from T-day trip. Noticeable clacking in the engine. Managed to get it home by not pushing when the power ebbed which kept it from bucking, and driving slow.

After getting back home, figured out that they used 5W30 and either didn't fill properly, this grade was just too thin (stupid shop), or my leak has gotten much worse very quickly. No oil light on, was not totally empty but low, put 3qts of 10W40 into it to refill.

belt (the drive belt? I only know so much) is completely skipping--squealing and smoking like a chimney.

starter (almost same), clutch (with much help--1998), shocks and other things that could have nothing at all to do with current problem (over the years), battery tests fine, oil is changed regularly (usually the 3K mark, never been later than 5K), transmission linkage needs some work soon. Truck has 176K miles, am not original owner--bought it in '97 at 82K-- minor body dings/rust, but has always run like a dream til this.

Two otehr belts are possible on front of the engine, one runs the power steering pump on the driver's side and the otehr runs the air conditioning compressor on the passenger side. Both have idler pulleys that tension the belts and its not uncommon for the bearings in the pulleys dry out, sieze up and cause the belt to stop. Easy to check by loosing the bolt in the center of the idler pulley then back off the tensioning bolt that runs ar tight angles to the pulley, remove the belt and see if the pulley spins freely. If not, remove the pulley and replace the bearing. They should not cost more than $20 or so at a bearing shop.
--
Roger

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Roger, You Rock! Great to hear good news on this. Figured out that belt is connected to my water pump, btw.
I don't have power steering or connected a/c. A/c wasn't factory, installed by previous owner who could never get it to work right and gave up, so I've never bothered. Been considering it. Maybe after I fix this bearing and solve this oil leak issue.
Thanks so much for your help--this is a great site & I'm glad everyone's so helpful. Am learning a ton about my truck just reading old posts! --TinaG
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..took the truck to the shop figuring that if this is a pretty simple repair, they could do it for me while finding where my oil's leaking. Whoa! So they're telling me:
--that's an air pump (not water pump as I thought), which I can just disconnect (?) and reconnect when I'm getting emissions inspections. He said replacing the bearing there would be like $500 worth of work (!) and that this air pump only does something for my emissions since the a/c isn't hooked up.
--that my oil leak might be under the timing cover and would run somewhere around $800-$1000 to fix.
I think I can figure out this bearing replacement as Roger explained it so well. What about checking this timing cover oil leak myself? I have the Chilton's manual --getting to the timing area looks a bit complicated. Getting a few tools isn't hard & I'm a sharp cookie, but some of the parts listed are not noted in the diagram for my engine, then I'm at a loss. Is there another book that completly lists every bit of guts this truck has? That would make all the difference.
Thanks for any help, TinaG
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> it so well.
Not a hard fix at all.
> --that my oil leak might be under the timing cover...

Will require some dis-assembly, but the 22R is an amazingly easy engine to work on, especially in that engine compartment.
> I have the Chilton's manual
Ditch it, and either buy the factory set (invaluable, if you intend on owning this or similar trucks for any period of time), or check out the on-line version at alldatadiy.com, where you can print out pages similar to the factory manual.
Unless you have a lot of engine building experience, the "steps" listed in a Chiltons are going to do you no good. A Haynes is significantly better, but the factory is truly the best.
good luck! GTr
--
Interested in Computer Architecture, specifically Itanium, from a
Programmer's Perspective? http://www.viika.com/itanium /
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Thanks for the encouragement. I pretty sure can handle this with a good manual and the right tools. I'm trying to locate a used factory manual online with little luck. Figure if I'm gonna get one, it might as well be the best one since I have good working hands & head, but not much experience. Can I go direct to Toyota to buy it new, or are there other used manual sites I'm not finding? (instead of the alldatadiy year-membership cost, rather own it outright) What kind of price am I looking at for it?
Thanks for all your help! --TinaG
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Absurd in my opinion. Even if you broke down and bought the part from the dealership (they make you buy the entire assembly) it is incredibly easy to repair if it is just the adjusting pulley.

around $800-$1000 to fix<<
Same deal here. A speedy sleeve on a 22r might run more like $300. Been a long time since I had one done, but that sounds way over the top. I don't remember if you need to pull the timing cover or not to replace the seal, but either way it isn't that difficult. Probably the hardest part is pulling the pulley off the crank. If the engine has a bunch of miles on it AND the cover DOES have to come off, it might be a good idea to replace the timing chain and tensioner while it is sitting there exposed. As well as a good time to check the timing cover to make sure there isn't any wear on the inside from a slack chain. the 22rs have a habit of having the chains go slack and eating through the inside of the cover which can cause a variety of problems. Just the opinions of a non-mechanic and 14 combined years of Toyotas ownership ;>) Chris whitewall junkie and variation dabbler <a href="http://members.aol.com/mfinja5/whitewalls2/ultimatedropdown/frames.h tm">Mfinja's Hot Wheels with Whitewalls</a>
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