On the 3VZ-E v6 engine, once the crankshaft pulley and camshaft pulleys are removed, how difficult is it to replace the front oil seals with the engine in place? Any tips on removing and installing or cautions to look out for?
Gary W.
The front crankshaft seal is mounted in the body of the oil pump. I don't think you can replace it without removing the oil pump first, which is quite a job because it means dropping the oil pan (to remove the sump) which -- in the case of 4WD -- means pulling the front differential. That is how I recently did it and the results have been very good. It was definitely worth doing right and it gave me a chance to check the oil pump and reseal the oil pan and baffle. A friend's shop had replaced this seal (2x) in the past and it leaked like a sieve both times. Now it is as tight as a drum. I suspect they took some sort of shortcut as it's not exactly rocket science.
I haven't had the pleasure of doing the camshaft seals. However, it is my understanding that the camshafts need to be removed to do this job properly.
HTH,
Luther
That's the one that looks the the easiest to do in place. I'll have to decide what to do with the crankshaft seals once I get the pulley's off. It also looks possible to replace the #2 idler pulley after the rear timing belt cover is off, without removing the intake manifold. Anyone BTDT?
Gary W.
The number 2 pulley bolts to the intake manifold. You will have to pull the air intake chamber to access the four mounting bolts. So, you are correct that you do not have to remove the intake manifold. Unfortunately, the hardest part of removing the manifold -- getting to it by pulling the intake chamber -- will nonetheless be required.
Luther
Luther, yesterday I spent some quality time with the front end of my truck engine. The camshaft and crankshaft seals can both easily be changed in place. The #2 idler pulley can replaced without removing the air intake chamber, mine was dry and loose, gear wrenches help here. Thanks.
Gary W.
What year was your's again? I'm not a professional mechanic but I don't see how the crank seal could be replaced on mine without sliding the oil pump off as the seal is flush with the oil pump. I suppose a hole could be drilled in the seal and it could be snatched out with a puller. Also, this is the way the shop manual says to do it (pulling the pump).
Sorry that I gave you bad advice. Perhaps the 3VZ-E changed a bit with the years and/or I need to be educated. One of my head gaskets just blew and I am going back in. Let me know what the procedure is and I will see if it will work on an '88.
Gary and Luther,
I had a 22RE that had a front seal go out, and I took it to the dealer expecting the pull the head off scenario (as the Chilton manual said would happen), but they took about 2 hours to somehow grab the seal with the pump in place. About $150 (about eight years ago). What a pleasant surprise!
Toyota somehow improvised and came up with a tool to remove it. This is an example of the kind of things that should be done as it benefits the consumer!
Your "mileage" of course may vary with a different motor.
Luther, my truck is a '90. If you look at a cross section of the oil seal it has a "V" shaped depression on the outer side somthing like this: |_/\ Protect the shaft with a piece of plastic cut from a bottle, then take a razor knife and cut all around the seal in the "v" of the seal being carefull not to damage the shaft. You can then take a small screwdriver or similar "tool" and pry out the outer ring of the seal. I've used this method for years with good results and is probably the method Kevin's mechanic used.
Gary
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